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92 Points

Tuesday, April 9, 2019 - I will paraphrase Mark Twain by saying that reports of this wine's death have been greatly exaggerated. From a bottle purchased upon release and cellared in pristine fashion, this particular specimen is aging gracefully. Deep red/garnet and teeming with black fruit, it adds notes of tree bark, allspice, cardamom, menthol and tobacco. Medium-to-full-bodied, freshly acidic and with nicely integrated alcohol (14.5%), it weaves in some attractive notes of oak and still has enough silky tannins to buttress the structure. The middle palate is impressively dense and the finish is equally impressive with respect to its length. Those holding well-cellared bottles of this wine will be pleasantly surprised by the amount of fruit that this 17-year-old wine retains. Decant it off of its substantial sediment and give it at least two hours of aeration. Drink now-2023.

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