Tuesday, December 31, 2013 - Based on 2008 vintage (46%) with a mix of reserve wines from earlier vintages (54%). A blend of Chardonnay (53%), Pinot Noir (29%) and Pinot Meunier (18%).
Pale lemon color. A delicate nose of restrained intensity; there are aromas of fresh, tart citrus fruits, some bread dough autolysis, a little yeasty French bread and a hint of chalky minerality. Overall the nose is quite dry and youthful, emphasizing very little fruit. The wine feels very dry, crisp and tightly-knit on the palate with pronounced chalky minerality, grapefruit-driven citrus fruit, some lime zest, a little spicy Pinosity and tons of acid. Its very low dosage (1,5 g/l) makes the wine really bright, linear and focused. The mousse feels quite smooth, fine and rather modest. The wine finishes with a really crisp and almost tart, medium-length aftertaste that emphasizes stony minerality and pithy grapefruit greatly, closing on a slightly bitter and very lightly saline note.
A remarkably focused and structured Champagne of wonderful finesse. Still way too young and primary, obviously in need of more cellar age. Very austere and forbiddingly tightly-knit at the moment, I could imagine the wine starts to unwind in 5 years and starts to really sing in 10 or so years. This is a wine that is not about power or fruit but instead balance and nuances, obviously meant for the long haul. Good value at 44,90€, recommended.