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93 Points

Friday, August 5, 2016 - I never dreamed I would be writing these words in a review of a Montefalco Sagrantino. Slowly, listen, read my lips: this is... a Merlot lovers... Sagrantino. What were all the other Sagrantinos doing while they were deep in their cool and rocky cellars? Lifting weights, bulking up, adding layers of muscle. And what was this Sagrantino doing? Polishing and filing down those iron hard tannins. And the main fruits in this wine are not intense black currants and briary blackberry, but instead closer to plum and black cherry. Now, the texture and mouth feel is not so much firm, grippy, and mouth stripping, but instead closer to soft, rounded, and lush. And finally, we do not have to patiently wait 15 or 20 years for the wine to become fully enjoyable, but instead the wine is open, forward, and delightfully enjoyable sooner. Is this Sagrantino a lesser, scaled back, or thinner wine? Not at all. This wine is dry and tannic, with the main difference that the tannin is less grippy and domineering. Yes, this wine is an atypical Sangrantino, but not a lesser one, just another fine and more elegant expression of the potential for how fruit and tannin may be woven into the fabric of a wine.

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