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90 Points

Wednesday, November 7, 2012 - Quite dark for a 14 year old nebbiolo, almost opaque garnet. The cork was bad and shredded mightily during extraction but didn't otherwise affect the wine. Thick, juicy with dark red fruits, and shredded with licorice, wood, earth, and mocha. It's got a thick almost cloying texture that detracts from the other elements. I don't quite see it acquiring more finesse or grace but if you like a more modern style this is good today and shows no indication of slowing down.

I like to verify my untutored statements about wood, modernity etc. before publishing a Barolo or Barbaresco note both because it keeps me learning and there are so many different styles I find it hard to distinguish sometimes. There's a great description of the winery's trajectory at their US importer, and apparently in 2004 they made an abrupt shift from a seeming Parker-inspired approach to more traditional methods. There's good underlying material, so a more recent vintage would offer a very illuminating comparison. See: http://www.viaswine.com/regioni/schedaAzienda.asp?cantina=53

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