Community Tasting Note

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Sunday, November 22, 2015 - 2013 Martinborough Pinot Noirs: Already being recognised by critics (Wine Spectator No 7 WoTY, James Suckling 99 points), I've shared a bottle with friends and tasted it alongside the rest of the 2013 Escarpment Pinot Noir range and the 2012 and 2011 Kupes. Vines planted in 1999, this is the ninth and clearly the best vintage. I've always regarded the Kiwa, from around 30 year old vines, as the top Escarpment SV cuvée but, in my view, in 2013 the Kupe is the better wine. But it's a major change in size and scale ... Very deep, impenetrable colour. On bouquet, compressed aromatics. Aromas of black cherries and other dark fruit, underbrush and dark earth. On palate, a big, brooding beast. Serious matière and huge structure. Palate staining with serious mid palate weight. Flavours of blackberries, Black Doris plums, bramble, dark peaty soil and liquorice. The 70% whole bunch lends a spicy, herby edge and more complexity to the wine. The oak handling is sympathetic (55% new French oak) and the acidity good. It reminded me of a Morey St Denis, perhaps a Clos de Tart. A friend however questioned the wine as lacking 'pinosity' and certainly, at this time, no one would describe it as elegant or floral. Normally the winemaker Larry McKenna recommends 5-10 years cellaring for his SV wines. Here he is recommending 10-20 years. This is a 10 years minimum cellaring proposition.

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