wrote:

86 Points

Thursday, March 25, 2010 - The 1999 vintage of this wine was an oaky disaster, but people kept insisting that Perrot-Minot had gotten better in this department and that I wouldn't say the same of the newer wines. The 2004 is not really the oaky disaster that the 1999 was, but oak is nevertheless the dominant flavor here and it ruins what could have been a Musignyesque wine, based on the sappy, satiny texture of the first few sips before the oak contagion really went malignant. Unlike the 1999, the oak here doesn't dry out the wine and leave raw wood and sawdust in its wake; instead it just tarts up the fruit with an intense brown-sugar malted-milkshake sweetness - all the way on the sweet end of the oak flavor spectrum with none of the spice. So it may be the *kind* of oak that's the issue here as much as the amount. This is not *vastly* more dominated by oak than the 2004 Clos des Lambrays, for example, but the oakspice of the Lambrays was enticing whereas here the malted makeup is just tiring. And it's a shame because the fruit underneath is just gorgeous, totally svelte and alluringly feminine in true Musignyesque fashion with none of the greenness nor even any of the acidic edginess of the 2004 vintage. This could easily pass for a 2002. I am almost tempted to buy some more and hope the oak integrates, but that would represent the triumph of hope over experience. Indeed, the leftovers the next day turn undrinkably oaky, with the burnt-coffee roasted character having completely sucked the fruit dry.

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