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93 Points

Saturday, March 21, 2020 - Medium gold color which would be somewhere between worrisome and fatal on a white from Burgundy or the Loire (and which we see all too often), but which is right in character for this wine at 17 years of age. Served at about 58 degrees.

Waxy golden apples, sweet corn, a light nuttiness, a hint of honey and vanilla. Then the second act is a lovely wash of bright orange and lemon, with a dusting of white spices, leading to a long, fresh finish.

This bottle seems at a perfect age. I don't know if 2003 was a very hot year in Rioja, but if it was, this bottle doesn't show any sign of overripeness or alcohol, and the acids are exceptional.

I confess to being afraid to open these for company, since they look and act unusual, and people (even experienced wine enthusiasts) are quick to write off a wine where they perceive any oxidation. So I opened it for myself this evening, and now . . . I wish I could show this off to some of my drinking buddies.

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