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95 Points

Sunday, September 3, 2023 - Bordeaux 2018 - 5 Years On - 7 Reds: Time to check in on some top 2018s, and the initial observations were all confirmed: A) This is obviously the ripest, sweetest Bordeaux vintage in the last decade. While only one wine (Cos d'Estournel, 88pts) was overripe and overdone, two others (Calon Segur - 94pts, Grand Puy Lacoste - 91pts) are not for purists and are quite sweet - at least this young. B) Despite the ripeness, the wines are generally very balanced and harmonious, not as extracted or thick as many 2009/2010s. C) The structural frames are of high quality with ultra-fine tannins and good acid backbones. However, with so many other great vintages produced in recent years, this is not the vintage to chase - especially for purists. The group winner was the highly elegant, seductive yet aristocratic Pichon Lalande (rated 95pts), just ahead of my WOTN, the floral, perfumed, airy Canon (96pts).

TN: Medium expressive nose with intriguing coffee notes, dark and red berries, some herbs. Wow, an amazing Pauillac with that Mouton burnt sugar notes to die for. Seamless on the palate with so much coffee, herbs, fresh strawberries, some dark red berries, herbs, graphite. This reminded me very much of a young-ish magnum of the legendary 1982 we had some years ago. The structure is quite perfect: the wine is so round and smooth with a wall of fine tannins, no excess weight, superb freshness. This is a fantastic, hedonistic yet elegant and sophisticated Cabernet which proves again that PLL is among the very best wines today in Bordeaux.

Decanting: Quickly double decanted three hours before consumption, no extensive decanting necessary.

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