2003 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo

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Monday, November 2, 2020 - There's always some trepidation when opening a 2003 Barolo, but I had a very open mind considering the wine in question. I believe this was double decanted in order to make a 2 hour drive to our place without undue damage, then served around 2 hours after that in Riedel Vinum burgundy stems. Brick red in color, nice and clear and with visible weight. I did get a slight roasted character on the nose, but no raisiny notes, which are what I hate in the most in hot vintage nebbiolo. In the mouth this was remarkably restrained, while still demonstrating warmth and some dried aspects. I got the feeling it was being held in a bit, the vinous equivalent of a corset, maybe, and that the warm vintage aspects may come out more as it ages. Right now, though, it is quite accessible, if still primary, and was more than up to the roast goat with fennel and onion that we threw at it, with its herbaceous notes playing very nicely on the slightly gamey meat, and the acid balancing the crispy skin handily.

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