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1989 Gaja Barolo Sperss
12/29/2023 - NYC_Maenad Likes this wine:
Stood for several weeks. Decanted gently off moderate sediment about 1 hour before serving in Conterno Sensory stems. Color began brick red, but shifted over the course of the evening to much more garnet with only slight bricking at the edges. Completely clean of sediment, beautifully clear. The nose shed some early hints of maderization to materialize as fully intact, displaying dark berry fruit, some licorice, tar and leather, herbs and spices. This struck me as very much in line with the classic 1989 profile - structured, a little stark and brooding but deep and rich. Dare I call it masculine? There's some Gaja expression for sure, but nothing that put me off, no oak spice getting in the way for me. The mouthfeel was slightly nubby, velvety, unfolding on the tongue over the course of a sip. I liked the depth here more than the length, as there was a little falling off at the finish. This example was nicely balanced for my palate, with plenty of fruit/tannin/acid, nothing sticking out. I think this wine has a long life ahead of it, and will continue to develop for at least another decade, but that there's plenty to be enjoyed at this stage in development. Beautiful barolo, a treat with Flannery steaks as the year rolls towards its end.
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2001 Joseph Drouhin Griotte-Chambertin
12/25/2023 - NYC_Maenad Likes this wine:
With roast chicken, Pnp and allowed to open in the glass. Cherries and some crushed pine needles on the attractive nose. Good clarity and saturation. Nice balance and mouthfeel. Overall, though, a little less than I'd hoped for, with some cough syrup notes. Light bodied, on the delicate side, JR found it heavy handed, which I did not, but it was a little less emphatic than I expected it to be. Perhaps it was better a few years ago? Air didn't improve it much, in fact it tightened up a little. A very pretty little burgundy, so long as you don't have high expectations. I've always liked Drouhin's Griotte, so this was a bit of a let down. I'll drink my remaining bottles with proper level setting.
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1949 Maison Leroy Musigny
12/24/2023 - NYC_Maenad Likes this wine:
Well preserved bottle with a torn capsule, but excellent fill level and color. Stood up in the cellar for 5 days, very little sediment observed. Removed the cork about 2 hours before serving, cooled briefly before decanting off minimal sediment at the last minute. Served in Conterno Sensory glasses with main course of squab with cabbage and rich squab sauce.
This poured crystal clear garnet with only a hint of brick brown and beautifully saturated, pale but not washed out. A color that only time in the bottle can produce. Those nose wafted seductively out of the glass – nothing coy here, elemental and purposeful mature burgundy notes, devoid of any maderization or oxidative elements. Autumnal, but still sun-warmed. Some macerated strawberries, touch of balsamic vinegar, dark chocolate, a bit of rose water. The kind of nose that makes you close your eyes and keep them closed for a few beats. In the mouth, this lithe, elegant, persistent and balanced. More silk than velvet, with none of the dustiness I often get even on the best old burgundies. There were no missing elements, from attack to lingering finish. The fruit, while faded, was still full and even rich, with energetic framing acidity. Interestingly, this demanded larger sips – with little kitten nibbles, it was like a pointillist painting viewed too close up. The picture revealed itself in its fullness with a real mouthful. Jonathan described it as having a liqueur-ish sense about it that only comes with fully mature burgundy. The wine matched perfectly with the fat of the squab and earthiness of the cabbage (touch of truffle butter). I would not have served this with a more complex meal, and I would not have wanted it on a line up with other bottles. I mourn the end of an era in our cellar – our last bottle of Leroy Musigny – but can’t imagine a better showing, exactly as it should be, enjoyed with the perfect food in the perfect company.
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