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90 Points

Wednesday, February 21, 2024 - This drink of Keller's 2019 Grüner Silvaner strongly resembles the description provided by Gerhard3 only a few weeks ago (q.v.) Gone is the startling acid-play that it shared on release back in 2020, leaving adhesive weight. Now, 24 hours after it unsealed, this bottle relaxes into a lush and transparent texture of marc Domfrontais and chalk. There's a vibrant, sincere little music coming from its heart, limited only by its own echo in a steel basin. It's a very good wine, and nothing was gained by aging it.

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