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92 Points

Saturday, November 5, 2011 - Drunk at Island Creek Oyster Bar, Boston ($68). Intensely aromatic, slightly oxidative nose bristling with spice and nutty liqueur, the alcohol tingling in the forefront but somehow balanced against the ferocious intensity of this wine. On the palate, rich, spiced, baked apple and honeycomb are followed by a savory, ciderish brininess and a nice big whallop of washed-rind cheese pungency. These latter, deep, umani-like notes provide a great counterpoint to the sweeter sensation that hits the tip of your tongue. The mouthfeel is thick, waxy, long and crazy with a notable alcohol element that was even more apparent than the 14/14.5% ABV might suggest, but which somehow seemed just exactly right.

Food pairing might be difficult, but this wine went beautifully with a rich, shnitzel-like preparation of monkfish in a light mustard sauce, as well as that amazing, honeyed biscuit at ICOB.

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