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95 Points

Sunday, July 22, 2007 - The French Laundry...21 Courses, 11 Wines, Infinite Memories; 7/21/2007-7/22/2007 (The French Laundry (Yountville, Napa Valley, California)): Being at the French Laundry in celebration of Amy Emery's 40th birthday, how can it get better? Well it does...how about rouelle of Four Story Hills Farm poularde, wrapped in applewood-smoked bacon, royal Blenheim apricots, cipollini onions, tarragon and Dijon mustard? Follow that with tete de cochon, with melted Swiss chard, potato puree and bliss maple syrup. What would you serve this with? The perfect match, of course…the Chave Hermitage 1989. Deep red in color with a garnet rim, this spectacular wine showed my "4+" bouquet of chocolate, black and red fruits, pomegranate, underbrush and a touch of menthol. Full-bodied on the palate, with medium acidity, big ripe tannins and a long, smooth finish. This wine warrants a very conservative 95+, as it is still clearly on the upswing. For anyone lucky enough to have this in his or her cellar, my personal recommendation would be to not open it before 2010. It should drink beautifully until 2025 or beyond. Amy had a big smile on her face at this point.

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