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92 Points

Wednesday, February 2, 2011 - Ohh, this has entered a really good phase right now. I like Loirefan's reviews, and I'm not sure whether bottle variation might be at play, but whatever disjointedness he/she detected is absolutely not evident here. I will say that this is easily the best (and unfortunately the last) of four bottles I've drunk over the past year and a half, showing both an almost Trimbachian richness and gravitas as well as classic Germanic precision and transparency. What's remarkable here right now is the combination of both fruit and spice elements, served up on a bed of bristling minerality. I don't wish to say this encapsulates the wine, but it's as though someone threw pineapple, lime, and gray slate into the mother of all Cuisinarts, hit 'Puree,' and then liberally dusted the resulting fruit-rock shake with cinnamon. The longer the bottle's open the more that cinnamon and nutmeg note comes to the fore, and the minerality becomes more rather than less palpable as the intensity of the yellow fruit flavors morphs into a savory lemon icing component. Drank with a moderately spiced green shrimp curry, which has to be one of the best food/wine combinations I've had in a while. A lovely wine to spend time with as we watched Chicago grind to a halt under twenty inches of snow. Wish I had six more of these.

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