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99 Points

Friday, August 24, 2018 - This wine is a mineralogist's dream. Just from a whiff of it, it smells like you're going to be drinking a salt lick (big aromatics - no swirling necessary). At least that's what it smells like after some airing out - at first it smelled like a salt mine + a sulfur mine. The palate is consistent. It comes across more solid than liquid to an extent I don't think I've ever experienced in any white Burgundy, though maybe in the occasional riesling; it has that salt-rimmed-tequila thing that some rieslings have, too. If you define the apex Burgundy vineyards as having the ability to aggregate the qualities of the not-quite-apex vineyards without diluting any of them, this qualifies: it has the acuity and precision of Chevalier (at its most precise) combined with the opulence of Batard (at its most opulent). The brassy color in the glass causes someone to remark that on pure sight you might think it's premoxed, but it's not. It does, however, have some of the buttered popcorn/candy corn that the Monty grand crus feature when they're at their ripest, which makes the rapier-like cut all the more remarkable. And it's just as cutting at room temperature. Poured first and finished last - it had enough torque you could get a whole lot out of a short sip and I figured (correctly) it would do nothing but get better and better the longer you could keep it in the glass, so I stretched it out. It didn't change vastly over time, except the first hour or so it took to kick the smack of sulfur, but it's pretty nice to spend a few hours with a daisy-cutter of a Montrachet you can bomb your palate with whenever you feel like it.

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