Wine Article
2009 Château Smith Haut Lafitte
Last edited on 6/25/2010 by cliffkol
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Berry Bros. & Rudd
http://www.bbr.com/product-76439b
2009 Ch. Smith Haut Lafitte Rouge Pessac Léognan - FRANCE
Medium-Full Bodied, Dry, For laying down, Cab.Sauvignon Blend, 13.5% alc.
Tasting Notes: One can't say enough about what proprietors Daniel and Florence Cathiard have accomplished at
this estate since 1990. Regrettably, I am old enough to remember how horrible the wines were before the Cathiards
purchased the property. They have fashioned one of the most consistently outstanding wines, both white and red,
over the last two decades, and their 2009 probably eclipses any previous performance. An opaque purple color is
followed by an explosive nose of graphite, black currants, licorice, incense, and a hint of black tea.
The wine hits the palate with extraordinary density, unctuosity, and richness, yet it never comes across as heavy or
overbearing. Deep and full-bodied with sensational concentration as well as remarkable purity and precision, this
brilliant wine possesses the high, but sweet tannins that are a hallmark of the vintage, and exceptional delicacy
allied to massive power and richness ... a rare combination indeed. This prodigious effort should drink well for
30~40 years. Bravo!
(Robert Parker - Wine Advocate - April 2010)
Property: Château Smith Haut Lafitte
Château Smith-Haut-Lafite has been transformed during the last decade from being a perennial underachiever to
being one of the leading estates in the Graves region.
For many years it was owned by the Bordeaux négociant Eschenauer - in 1990 it was bought by former Olympic
skiing champion, Daniel Cathiard. He cut down on the amount of chemicals and herbicides used in the vineyards,
and fully modernised the winemaking facilities. The proportion of new oak barrels used in the maturation process
was increased and a trio of eminent oenologists (including the ubiquitous Michel Rolland) were hired as
consultants.
The 55 hectares of vineyards are located on a gravel ridge to the east of Château Haut-Bailly. The red wine is a
blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (55%), Merlot (35%) and Cabernet Franc (10%). The grapes are fermented in
stainless steel vats and the wine is then matured in oak barrels (50% new) for 15-18 months. The wines are bottled
unfined and unfiltered.
Vintage Notes: 2009 - Red Bordeaux
Bordeaux vintage 2009 - The greatest vintage ever? Or a very good vintage with some truly exceptional wines, but
too patchy to be ranked amongst the very finest?
As ever, any such assessment starts with the weather, for which I am greatly indebted to the observations of Bill
Blatch of Vintex, a negociant of 30 years experience, and an acknowledged expert in the world of Sauternes,
whose annual weather report yields such a deep insight into the eventual style of the vintage. Broadly speaking the
weather was exceptionally benign through most of the growing season.
Flowering generally took place in perfect conditions, and then followed a long period of very dry, sunny weather,
but without the excesses of heat which marked 2003. By August some well-drained vineyards were beginning to
show signs of hydric stress, while the sugar levels in the grapes approached hitherto unseen levels.
Localised rain in the third week of September proved very welcome as it helped maintain the vegetative cycle; in
some areas, by September 21st, roughly when the Merlot harvest began on the Left Bank and in the later-picking
Right Bank estates, the grapes displayed very high sugar levels but the tannins remained largely unripe.
Some growers panicked at this point and rushed to pick, fearful of seeing potential alcohol levels go through the
roof. They then sought to compensate with longer- than-usual maceration to extract more fruit, only to find their
wines over-burdened with dry, austere tannins. Those who held their nerve were rewarded, as a further week of dry
weather helped to ripen the tannins fully, while cool nights helped to preserve important balancing acidity and,
crucially, to maintain freshness in the eventual wine.
The long, drawn-out dry weather in September, continuing into early October, enabled the Cabernets to ripen fully
and to develop immense complexity, and it is no surprise to see some extraordinary wines on the Left Bank, and in
those estates on the Right Bank where there is a good percentage of Cabernet grapes. The drought has reduced
yields generally, as did some violent hailstorms in May, particularly in St. Emilion, and the small size of the berries
has led to a high solids-liquid ratio in the vats, with record levels of tannins in many of the wines we tasted.
High tannin alone is, of course, not an indication of quality, nor is an elevated alcoholic percentage necessarily a
negative; what is important is the quality of the tannins, and how they fit into the structure of the wine. Time after
time we noted fantastically ripe tannins, providing the basis for great longevity while making no unwelcome,
aggressive intrusion into the perception of the wine on the palate.
As a result the overriding impression is of a seamless, rich texture in the mouth, preceded by glorious opulent
aromas of ripe, black fruits, and, in the best examples, a refreshing minerality and terroir expression on the
palate, with enough acidity to provide balance on the finish.
Alcohol levels on the Left Bank are well above 13%, unusually high, but rarely did I find any wines unbalanced as
a result, such is the depth of their concentration and completeness of harmony.
On the Right Bank, where alcohol levels frequently exceeded 14%, there is more of a problem, with some wines
exhibiting heady aromas and elements of heat on the finish. Those properties in St. Emilion and Pomerol which
have avoided this pitfall deserve enormous credit for producing wine of freshness and balance in the prevailing
conditions. Far too many, however, are disjointed, with harsh tannins out of harmony with the rest of the wine, for
2009 to be considered uniformly great on this side of the river.
When I visited Bordeaux in April 2006 I formed the view that the 2005 reds were the finest clarets I had ever tasted,
at that stage of their evolution. Furthermore, that level of quality pervaded the entire gamut of wines from simple
Bordeaux rouge through to the Crus Bourgeois right up to the top Classified Growths.
2009 lacks the homogeneity and consistency of 2005, but it is nevertheless clear that some estates, notably in
Pauillac, Margaux and St. Julien, have made dazzling wines which are marginally superior even to their
justly-lauded 2005s.
In a nutshell they are simply gorgeous to taste, and may well remain so throughout their lives, such is the ripeness
of both fruit and tannin. One can imagine drinking them young to enjoy the exuberance of the fruit, but much
greater pleasure will be obtained through the exercise of patience. Above all, one of the most surprising facts about
the vintage is the way in which the massive concentration is offset by a beguiling freshness in the best wines.
Alun Griffiths MW, BBR Wine Director (12.04.2010)
http://www.bbr.com/product-76439b
2009 Ch. Smith Haut Lafitte Rouge Pessac Léognan - FRANCE
Medium-Full Bodied, Dry, For laying down, Cab.Sauvignon Blend, 13.5% alc.
Tasting Notes: One can't say enough about what proprietors Daniel and Florence Cathiard have accomplished at
this estate since 1990. Regrettably, I am old enough to remember how horrible the wines were before the Cathiards
purchased the property. They have fashioned one of the most consistently outstanding wines, both white and red,
over the last two decades, and their 2009 probably eclipses any previous performance. An opaque purple color is
followed by an explosive nose of graphite, black currants, licorice, incense, and a hint of black tea.
The wine hits the palate with extraordinary density, unctuosity, and richness, yet it never comes across as heavy or
overbearing. Deep and full-bodied with sensational concentration as well as remarkable purity and precision, this
brilliant wine possesses the high, but sweet tannins that are a hallmark of the vintage, and exceptional delicacy
allied to massive power and richness ... a rare combination indeed. This prodigious effort should drink well for
30~40 years. Bravo!
(Robert Parker - Wine Advocate - April 2010)
Property: Château Smith Haut Lafitte
Château Smith-Haut-Lafite has been transformed during the last decade from being a perennial underachiever to
being one of the leading estates in the Graves region.
For many years it was owned by the Bordeaux négociant Eschenauer - in 1990 it was bought by former Olympic
skiing champion, Daniel Cathiard. He cut down on the amount of chemicals and herbicides used in the vineyards,
and fully modernised the winemaking facilities. The proportion of new oak barrels used in the maturation process
was increased and a trio of eminent oenologists (including the ubiquitous Michel Rolland) were hired as
consultants.
The 55 hectares of vineyards are located on a gravel ridge to the east of Château Haut-Bailly. The red wine is a
blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (55%), Merlot (35%) and Cabernet Franc (10%). The grapes are fermented in
stainless steel vats and the wine is then matured in oak barrels (50% new) for 15-18 months. The wines are bottled
unfined and unfiltered.
Vintage Notes: 2009 - Red Bordeaux
Bordeaux vintage 2009 - The greatest vintage ever? Or a very good vintage with some truly exceptional wines, but
too patchy to be ranked amongst the very finest?
As ever, any such assessment starts with the weather, for which I am greatly indebted to the observations of Bill
Blatch of Vintex, a negociant of 30 years experience, and an acknowledged expert in the world of Sauternes,
whose annual weather report yields such a deep insight into the eventual style of the vintage. Broadly speaking the
weather was exceptionally benign through most of the growing season.
Flowering generally took place in perfect conditions, and then followed a long period of very dry, sunny weather,
but without the excesses of heat which marked 2003. By August some well-drained vineyards were beginning to
show signs of hydric stress, while the sugar levels in the grapes approached hitherto unseen levels.
Localised rain in the third week of September proved very welcome as it helped maintain the vegetative cycle; in
some areas, by September 21st, roughly when the Merlot harvest began on the Left Bank and in the later-picking
Right Bank estates, the grapes displayed very high sugar levels but the tannins remained largely unripe.
Some growers panicked at this point and rushed to pick, fearful of seeing potential alcohol levels go through the
roof. They then sought to compensate with longer- than-usual maceration to extract more fruit, only to find their
wines over-burdened with dry, austere tannins. Those who held their nerve were rewarded, as a further week of dry
weather helped to ripen the tannins fully, while cool nights helped to preserve important balancing acidity and,
crucially, to maintain freshness in the eventual wine.
The long, drawn-out dry weather in September, continuing into early October, enabled the Cabernets to ripen fully
and to develop immense complexity, and it is no surprise to see some extraordinary wines on the Left Bank, and in
those estates on the Right Bank where there is a good percentage of Cabernet grapes. The drought has reduced
yields generally, as did some violent hailstorms in May, particularly in St. Emilion, and the small size of the berries
has led to a high solids-liquid ratio in the vats, with record levels of tannins in many of the wines we tasted.
High tannin alone is, of course, not an indication of quality, nor is an elevated alcoholic percentage necessarily a
negative; what is important is the quality of the tannins, and how they fit into the structure of the wine. Time after
time we noted fantastically ripe tannins, providing the basis for great longevity while making no unwelcome,
aggressive intrusion into the perception of the wine on the palate.
As a result the overriding impression is of a seamless, rich texture in the mouth, preceded by glorious opulent
aromas of ripe, black fruits, and, in the best examples, a refreshing minerality and terroir expression on the
palate, with enough acidity to provide balance on the finish.
Alcohol levels on the Left Bank are well above 13%, unusually high, but rarely did I find any wines unbalanced as
a result, such is the depth of their concentration and completeness of harmony.
On the Right Bank, where alcohol levels frequently exceeded 14%, there is more of a problem, with some wines
exhibiting heady aromas and elements of heat on the finish. Those properties in St. Emilion and Pomerol which
have avoided this pitfall deserve enormous credit for producing wine of freshness and balance in the prevailing
conditions. Far too many, however, are disjointed, with harsh tannins out of harmony with the rest of the wine, for
2009 to be considered uniformly great on this side of the river.
When I visited Bordeaux in April 2006 I formed the view that the 2005 reds were the finest clarets I had ever tasted,
at that stage of their evolution. Furthermore, that level of quality pervaded the entire gamut of wines from simple
Bordeaux rouge through to the Crus Bourgeois right up to the top Classified Growths.
2009 lacks the homogeneity and consistency of 2005, but it is nevertheless clear that some estates, notably in
Pauillac, Margaux and St. Julien, have made dazzling wines which are marginally superior even to their
justly-lauded 2005s.
In a nutshell they are simply gorgeous to taste, and may well remain so throughout their lives, such is the ripeness
of both fruit and tannin. One can imagine drinking them young to enjoy the exuberance of the fruit, but much
greater pleasure will be obtained through the exercise of patience. Above all, one of the most surprising facts about
the vintage is the way in which the massive concentration is offset by a beguiling freshness in the best wines.
Alun Griffiths MW, BBR Wine Director (12.04.2010)