CharlesHK
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2016 Pierre Graffeuille et Matthieu Dumarcher Odyssée
4/9/2024 - CharlesHK Likes this wine: 90 Points
First bottle of three purchased at a wine shop going out of business; pretty much half price. Always wanted to try this wine but the full price seemed high for the wine. Opened and decanted for one hour; served at 20C. 14.5%. A unique blend of grapes: 47% CS, 22%G, 12%S, 9% Mourvedre; 8% Merlot; 2% PV. Wild.
This wine comes from exceptional pedigree - Pierre Graffeuille from Leoville Las Cases and Matthieu Dumarcher from the Rhone Valley. He loves Grenache. Grapes from old vines north of St. Estephe and old vines north of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Warm vintages in both regions and it shows.
The wine is still young. Colour is middle age. Firm, dry tannins, great richness and length. Rich in body, but not yet in taste. Some alcohol on the nose and palate. No overt oak which is a very pleasant surprise. Cabernet with brambles and a bit of blackness that comes from the southern Rhone. Rich, strong and dry, but not one bit austere. Full. This wine promises a lot more at this stage and I look forward to trying it in about four years plus. Masterful blending no doubt! Exceptional wine making and blending.
Of course, there is a larger question: does the wine work (i.e. the unique blend)? I think so. It goes a long way because of the top-tier making, the quality of the fruit, the vintage, and the care given to this wine. All of these aspects are reflected in the regular price, which, in Hong Kong I find a bit exorbitant.
You can't really compare this wine to any other. My best option is the Elderton Ode to Lorraine which is a blend of Cabernet, Shiraz, and Merlot. This wine is not as pretty as the Ode to Lorraine often is, nor as sweet. But, the depth might be greater, especially with the dry tannins and fullness of the texture.
A wine definitely worth trying and enjoying for what it is. Approach this wine with no preconceptions. Would I purchase a case of 12? No. Would I buy it at full price? Maybe one bottle just to experience the exceptional wine making.
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2005 Château Meyney
2/19/2024 - CharlesHK Likes this wine: 94 Points
Purchased in 2018 at what I considered a tremendous bargain. Providence assured, cellared since in a trans therm. 3rd bottle from 12 and boy, I'm glad I purchased a case.
Opened and decanted for 4 hours. Served at 20C. 13.5%. Jancis Robinson stated it was 52% CS, 28M, 20PV. Hard to believe there is 20PV in this wine, but she is an expert.
Colour: dark garnet with slight bricking. Aroma: classic old school Bordeaux. Unmistakeable. Taste: classic Bordeaux but not one bit austere. Medium weight, but the power is all in the purity of the fruit and the extraordinary elegance of this wine. Rich but not over-the-top opulent. It is seamless; textbook. In a vintage where a lot of turbocharged wines were crafted, this is pure elegance. Wow.
I love Chateau Meyney and buy it by the case in good years. But what I most love about Meyney is introducing it to people who really love top-tier Bordeaux to demonstrate that 1855 classifications are not always indicative of top-tier quality. Exceptional value can be secured in very good and great vintages and Meyney 2005 is one of them. In the 21st century, Meyney almost always punches well above its price point and pedigree.
If you like the opulence and richness of the 2009 Meyney and to a lesser extent 2014 and 2016, you might not like this vintage as much. If you enjoy classic Claret that is not green, weedy, or austere, you might well love this wine. I do. It is a tremendous accomplishment. Purity in a bottle.
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2010 Kaesler Shiraz The Bogan
11/10/2023 - CharlesHK wrote: 92 Points
2nd bottle from 10 purchased in 2015. Decanted for one hour, served at 18C. 15% ABV. From vines planted in 1899 and 1965 and it shows. Concentrated. Matured in 75% French oak, 25% American oak, 25% new with the balance 2 & 3 year old oak.
Hands down, the best Bogan I have tasted; eclipsing the 2002 and 2005 (just) and really distancing itself from the 2004, 2006, and 2008.
Disclaimer: Kaesler might not be everyone's style, but from their entry level cabernet or viognier, up to the Old Bastard Shiraz, their wines are exceptionally well made. I really admire the wine maker, Stephen Dew. He is an iconic winemaker. A lot of love and attention goes into Kaesler wines and it shows. Generally speaking, Kaesler wines are seamless, plush, true to their place and character. Almost always, these wines are an absolute pleasure to drink. Guests have always adored and commented on their wines.
My chief complaint against the Bogan has always been the American oak. I don't think the Old Bastard, the Alte Reben (Shiraz or Mataro), or the Old Vine Shiraz use American oak. I tasted the 2010 Bogan five years ago and the lick of American oak was noticeable, off-putting. Vanilla, perfumed, and sweet.
Tonight, it's totally resolved. Hooray.
Colour: dark garnet, impenetrable at its core, lighter at the rim. Hints of purple suggesting this wine will continue to evolve. Great viscosity.
Taste: absolutely no heat despite the 15%. BUT, drink it on the cooler side as it lost some structure heading above 20C. Dark fruits predominate but it doesn't taste black or burnt. No sweet, jammy blackberry of yesteryear Barossa either.
The 2010 Bogan doesn't evolve much over the course of even a long meal so I would recommend this wine with a party of 4 or 6. One glass each will leave guests wanting more. Shared between two people, one bottle is probably a bit too much of the same thing from start to finish.
Terrific Bogan; memorable and iconic Australian shiraz. To be honest, I couldn't ask for anything more from a Barossa shiraz at double the price.
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