2006 Camillo Donati Lambrusco Tenuta S. Andrea

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  10/1/2008, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (Camillo Donati LAMBRUSCO) Sparkle Dear Friends, This is the type of wine you rely on us to uncover - it is retailer-suicide to most but to us it is as special as anything in the wine-world (and equally as educational). This is why I have passion for our hobby and why I relish the chance to never stop learning. With that, I am delighted to introduce this traditional beverage to you - Lambrusco, a true taste of Emilia-Romagna and a wine intended to bring out the best in the local gastronomy (of which there is plenty - Prosciutto di Parma and the myriad of cheeses to name a few). Lambrusco may have its preconceptions but so did Bordeaux in the mid-1970s (i.e poor quality) but all it takes is a few pioneers to resuscitate an entire region or wine type - near Parma, Camillo Donati is that name. If you've never placed a hunk of the best Reggiano in your mouth followed by a sip of Camillo Donati, you are in for one of the more cherished food/wine pairings in Italy. This 100% organic/biodynamic lightly sparking wine should not be thought of as a Champagne alternative or even as a true sparkling wine per se - the frizzante aspect quickly dissipates and you are left with a very serious dry red wine that is chiseled from its place like a sculptor hammering at Corinthian marble. This is not a sweet or delicate beverage - it is a complete drink that dances over a wide spectrum of spice, dark fruit and floral flavors and I enjoyed an entire bottle with four other tasters over a six hour period (it kept getting better and better as oxygen was gulped by the wanting molecules). Cool-toned, deep and penetrating with loads of dense, purple extract and a chalky, stone-faced, cold-climate personality that is really something. With only 12.5-13.0% alcohol (very low for central Italy), this is such an enlightening experience that its educational value is almost as important as how good of a wine it is (which is first rate). While initially sparkling, the true insight of this treat comes over many hours as the bubbles dissipate so don't be afraid to serve this as the still red wine at your dinner party - the fine tannic structure and layered minerality will continue to unfold from aperitif to digestif. While you may get strange looks while uncapping a bottle of wine (versus uncorking - this has a traditional bottle cap enclosure), those lucky to attend your event will stay interested well into the night: As an added bonus, this bottle has a lovely label, complete with Donati's famous "black label" and worker proverb/farm girl painting. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED as a singular wine that will tantalize the tastebuds and great your dinner guests with a most unusual experience. We have an exceptional price on this wine, about the same as in Italy: 2006 Camillo Donati Lambrusco del'Emilia (biodynamic/organic - black label) Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Italy5299