Brilliant golden colour. Shy, reticent nose carefully showing some steely, stony and flowery nuances. Lovely broad and well balanced palate of juicy yellow orchard fruit, waxy damp wool and mossy riverbed. Just a beautiful mature dry Chenin, actually a lot better and fresher than the previous bottle I had years ago.
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The colour was very golden, almost bronze, and my fears were realized: there was some oxidation here. But old chenin is a funny thing, and the oxidized note lessened as it got more air. What was left after about an hour was a nose with oxidation, nuts, yellow fruit, quince and wool. The palate was medium to full bodied, with the 14.5% alcohol making its presence felt, but not too overtly. Rotten fruit, wool, minerals, nuts and oxidative notes all make an appearance. Is it over the hill or in a phase? Who knows? That's what is frustrating about these wines. But they are singular, not mistakable for anything else. I remain a fan! But I'll get to my last bottle soon (B+).
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The two previous bottles were very evolved if not premoxed. This one was much better once it had warmed up from the excessively cool temperature at which I had opened it. Colour was deep amber but there were no obvious oxidative notes on the nose and medium/full palate but plenty of wax, some quince and even some fresher white fruit, minerals and smooth acidity peeping through. High alcohol contributed backbone but was not otherwise obtrusive. My best bottle was opened in 2009 when greater freshness led to more complexity. Good though.
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This bottle was better preserved that the previous one. Colour medium gold and nose very subdued. Palate round and quite full bodied with smooth texture, some slightly sweet white fruit and wax but somewhat bland until goat cheese improved focus and brought out some mineral complexity. Quite good but it should be more.
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2/23/2021 - jkoenen wrote: 92 Points
Brilliant golden colour. Shy, reticent nose carefully showing some steely, stony and flowery nuances.
Lovely broad and well balanced palate of juicy yellow orchard fruit, waxy damp wool and mossy riverbed.
Just a beautiful mature dry Chenin, actually a lot better and fresher than the previous bottle I had years ago.
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12/21/2018 - JohnSh wrote: 89 Points
The colour was very golden, almost bronze, and my fears were realized: there was some oxidation here. But old chenin is a funny thing, and the oxidized note lessened as it got more air. What was left after about an hour was a nose with oxidation, nuts, yellow fruit, quince and wool. The palate was medium to full bodied, with the 14.5% alcohol making its presence felt, but not too overtly. Rotten fruit, wool, minerals, nuts and oxidative notes all make an appearance. Is it over the hill or in a phase? Who knows? That's what is frustrating about these wines. But they are singular, not mistakable for anything else. I remain a fan! But I'll get to my last bottle soon (B+).
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2/24/2018 - eboracum Likes this wine: 89 Points
The two previous bottles were very evolved if not premoxed. This one was much better once it had warmed up from the excessively cool temperature at which I had opened it. Colour was deep amber but there were no obvious oxidative notes on the nose and medium/full palate but plenty of wax, some quince and even some fresher white fruit, minerals and smooth acidity peeping through. High alcohol contributed backbone but was not otherwise obtrusive. My best bottle was opened in 2009 when greater freshness led to more complexity. Good though.
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11/11/2015 - eboracum wrote: 86 Points
This bottle was better preserved that the previous one. Colour medium gold and nose very subdued. Palate round and quite full bodied with smooth texture, some slightly sweet white fruit and wax but somewhat bland until goat cheese improved focus and brought out some mineral complexity. Quite good but it should be more.
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10/18/2015 - David Meddings wrote: flawed
Oxidized.
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