2004 Domaine des Soulanes Côtes Catalanes Cuvée Jean Pull

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  6/19/2007, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (Soulanes Jean Pull) Roussillon Dear Friends, Ok, the Roussillon is about to have its day in the sun and I expect the upcoming WA report to be the most focused and precise yet on this emerging region (David Schildknecht has penned the review which means you will get a very different perspective than in years past). That being said, you may want to take a close look at this... From nearly half old-vine Grenache and half old-vine Carignan, this is what the Roussillon is soon to be very famous for: Priorat-esque blends from century-old vines with a French twist (all at some of the lowest prices of any wine region on earth) - that is as close to a summation as I can muster. While the varietals scream southern Rhone, they have far more in common with their Spanish brethren which makes a great deal of sense. The Roussillon is just at close to Basque country and Spain as it is to the rest of France and the climate, growing conditions and often frightfully steep and mountainous vineyard sites call to mind the high-altitude of Priorat more than the Languedoc proper a hundred miles to the east. Domaine des Soulanes has been profiled on several occasions and Daniel Lafitte is the reason. This is dedication like few would have the energy to emulate and this man literally lives his land. The wines are organically produced with as little intervention as the year 2007 will allow (he occasionally cheats by placing the freshly cut grapes into his car to transport them to the winery instead of walking the two miles on foot with 30lbs of grapes - certainly excusable). A huge step up from the 2003 version, 2004 was a great vintage in the Roussillon (arguably better than 2005 in certain districts) and this wine shows us why. For a pittance of a price, you get a stylish, rich and dark-toned example with a gorgeous texture that would not be out of place in the cellars of Clos Mogador (mixed with a touch of Marcoux for a French accent). The fruit is so balanced, you can taste the soil it is grown in and you know this is a special wine from an up and coming star winery and just a top value all around. For the time, patience and effort that goes into producing a wine such as this it’s hard to fathom how it can be sold for such a low price. Expect to hear a great deal more about this winery in the coming months and years. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED for terrific value and expression of an artisan hand ONE SHIPMENT ONLY at this price, about the same as in France: 2004 Domaine des Soulanes “Cuvee Jean Pull” VDP Cote Catalane Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA SOFR9999