2010 Johann Geil Silvaner Spätlese Trocken ''S''

Terry Theise Estate Selections

• By Terry Theise
  2011 German Catalog, 3/1/2011, (See more on Terry Theise Estate Selections...)

  (Geil Silvaner "S" Spätlese Trocken) ($23.00) “S” denotes a reserve-quality wine whose standards are created and enforced by a grower's association to which Geil belongs. And this wine taught me a lesson. For the first time, I began to understand why the Old Ones insisted Silvaner could also be profound. Later it was debased by high-yielding new clones, but this wine comes from an old clone selected by Georg Scheu (after whom daddy’s favorite little vixen-wine is named). The wine is fascinating, much more so than most of the trendy wines from…let’s say points-south. Orchids and narcissus and stones and yellow fruits, with an almost Szechuan-pepper spice on the deliberate finish.