2011 Eugen Müller Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Spätlese Trocken "Cyriakus"

Terry Theise Estate Selections

• By Terry Theise
  2012 German Catalog, 6/1/2012, (See more on Terry Theise Estate Selections...)

  (Eugen Müller Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Spätlese Trocken "Cyriakus") ($32.00) The prime parcel within the Kirchenstück – and there’s some reason for optimism the E.U. will permit such names to appear on wine labels again. I’d love to see it, but I’m a drooling dawg of terroir, and I loves me some of them old names. If the above Kirchenstück were the Federspiel this would be the Smaragd, though not by dint of power or alcohol but by strength of terroir expression. Though determinedly dry, the mineral intensity carries it in lieu of fruit as-such. It’s why some of us go to Riesling but also why more of us don’t. The rewards are very real, but cerebral. +