2013 Gramercy Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley

JancisRobinson.com

• By Jancis Robinson, MW
  3/11/2017, (See more on JancisRobinson.com...)

  (Gramercy Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley Red) Subscribe to see review text.

• By Stephen Tanzer
  Focus on Washington: Hot Times in the Desert (Nov 2016), 11/1/2016, (See more on Vinous...)

  (Gramercy Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Washington) Login and sign up and see review text.

Full Pull

• By Paul Zitarelli
  Full Pull A Soft Spot Only Gets You So Far, 1/15/2017

  (Gramercy Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley) Hello friends. The first Gramercy offer of the year is always a chance for me to reflect on one of our most positive long-term relationships here at Full Pull. Back in October 2009, the year of FP’s launch, I opened our first-ever Gramercy offer with this: Greg Harrington is the kind of guy that invites a stranger to dinner. And I don't mean out to dinner. I mean to a dinner in his home. During my first research trip for Full Pull, back in summer 2009 before we had even launched, back when I was a blogger with a glimmer in my eye, Greg treated me like a professional before I had earned the right to be treated that way. (He also cooked a lovely pork tenderloin.) I’ll always have a soft spot for Gramercy because of that initial interaction, but a soft spot only gets you so far. The main reason we continue to work with Gramercy is not just because Greg and Pam Harrington and Brandon Moss are wonderful to work with, but mostly because they make ridiculously compelling wines, year in and year out. Hard to believe we’re entering our ninth year of writing about Gramercy. The winery’s star has really risen since those early days, based on a clear house style (low-alc, high-acid, terroir-expressive) and a record of consistent excellence. Today we’re going to focus on one of Gramercy’s calling cards (their Walla Walla Valley Syrah) and one of their underrated gems (Columbia Valley Cabernet). Often lost amidst the winery’s core focus on Rhone varieties is the fact that they make a thrilling Cabernet Sauvignon as well. This 2013 is a brilliant example of pan-Washington Cab. Excerpts from Greg’s notes: I wrote a bunch of expletives (in a good way) for my tasting notes on this wine.  We really like the 2013 Cabernet’s at Gramercy.  I think the debate of which vintage is better in Washington, 2012 or 2013, will continue for years to come.  Much like Burgundy in 1990 and 1991 and Margaux in 1982 and 1983, the consensus of which is the better vintage is questioned.  As of right now, I am leaning towards 2013, but ask me again in six months.  They are both outstanding vintages for Cabernet Sauvignon in Washington… For the Columbia Valley blend, we started with Bacchus, Dionysus and Phinny, but then rounded out the wine with a bit of estate fruit from our Octave Vineyard.  In 2013, we also had access to Andrew Will’s Two Blondes Vineyard.  This added that beautiful earthly “Margaux” thing that Jeb Dunnuck mentions.  We also added a bit of Loess Vineyard Merlot, owned by the Figgins Family in Walla Walla. The 2013 Cabernet is a blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot.  It was aged in 40% new French oak and the remainder in 2-5 year old French barrels. Tasting Notes: A combination of red and black fruit.  Intense mid palate concentration.  Floral nose.  Pencil, tobacco, cedar and integrated herbal notes.  A bit of vanilla and baking spice from French oak.  Ripe, but elegant. I was just crazy about this vintage, wild for its earthiness, which I noted as some combination of beetroot and porcini and graphite, all over a core of blackcurrant and black plum fruit. The finish is all lovely tannin leafiness – tobacco and green tea – and a thread of mint keeps things fresh throughout. While it’s approachable by Gramercy standards, this is still a 10- to 20-year wine. Wine Advocate: Copyrighted material withheld.