2014 Holger Koch Kaiserstuhl Grauburgunder

Community Tasting Notes (1) Avg Score: 90 points

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  12/2/2015 - forceberry wrote: 90 Points

  Pale yellow color with youthful green highlights. Very intense, sharp and tangy nose for a Grauburgunder with aromas of spicy minerality, barely ripe and tart green apples and green currants, some white peach, a little bit of honeyed richness and a hint of reductive smoky character. Thew wine is moderately full-bodied, lively and quite concentrated on the palate with more emphasis on savory and mineral tones than on the fruit; there are flavors of pronounced stony minerality, white pepper-driven spice, some barely ripe yellow fruits, a little bit of wildhoney, a hint of fresh golden apples and a grassy touch of herby character. Despite its sense of weight, the wine is moderately high in acidity, lending it good sense of structure and freshness. The finish is quite long, bright and refreshing with flavor of stony minerality, fresh apples, some peach-driven stone fruits, a little bit of saline minerality and a touch of sappy herbal character.
  
  All in all a surprisingly bright, refreshing and tangy Pinot Gris that doesn't show that richness a German Grauburgunder is normally known for - especially when the wine comes from such southern part of the country as Baden. Despite its freshness and even greenish, almost Sauvignon Blanc-ish herbal tones, the wine doesn't feel like a Pinot Grigio, but instead a ripe and concentrated white like a good Pinot Gris should be. Overall a tasty, balanced and enjoyable effort. Priced according to its quality at 17€.

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