2017 David Duband Morey St. Denis 1er Cru

Community Tasting Notes (1) Avg Score: 93 points

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  11/28/2021 - sid_loves_wine Likes this wine: 93 Points

  Very beautiful, elegant, sometimes wild- maybe not the greatest QPR, I've had several Pinots in a similar style for somewhat less cost- but really lovely and would probably improve with time, at least in the short term.
  
  This felt quite "modern"- not in the sense of very ripe fruit or noticeable oak, but somewhat designed to be drunk young, already showing serious elegance, very sleek. It also reminded me a lot of new world PN, specifically the kinds that come from the coolest reaches (Santa Maria Valley, Central Otago, etc), with a really REALLY strong emphasis on minerality and almost "smokiness" (not reduction though)- in most Burg I've tasted, this quality isn't as much at the fore. But all of that is obviously a huge generalization.
  
  Expressive nose right on the pop and pour, showing wisps of wild reddish fruits (raspberry, maybe cherry) and after time, faint hints of darker fruit, maybe approaching blueberry. Much more powerful than the fruit was a damp, stony mineral tone that shot out of the glass- tons of petrichor and a blanket of slightly smoky wild herbs. There was definitely enough fruit there to balance it out, a very enticing nose, just with extreme emphasis on the minerality- maybe terroir? Not much in the way of noticeable oak, although I got hints of odd spices like cardamom or coriander.
  
  The palate was nearly the same, kisses of dark red fruits and powerful minerality like river stones. At times the palate was ultra-elegant, with superfine tannins, ethereal textures, a lingering finish. Other times it felt disjointed- the fruit fading behind the earth, the acidity feeling tart to the point of saltiness, the tannins suddenly kicking into gear and showing as chalky/angular (thankfully this was rare.) Held up fine on day 2, but the fruit had faded to the point where I wanted some of it back- better night 1.
  
  Loved this, but I think maybe it might coalesce with light aging- the various components just need a few years to integrate. I loved the incredible elegance and interesting complexity, even if it wasn't always singing perfectly in tune.

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