2016 Kiona Sangiovese Estate Reserve

Full Pull

• By Paul Zitarelli
  Full Pull Kiona, 2/28/2019

  (Kiona Estate Sangiovese) Hello friends. Kiona Vineyards is a standout operation in Washington. They are a family of grape growers and winemakers that create a range of samplings from the vineyards their family planted on Red Mountain when there was practically nothing else there. Kiona is the original vineyard on Red Mountain, planted in 1975 by John Williams and Jim Holmes (who went on to plant Ciel du Cheval). Now run by JJ Williams, Kiona’s portfolio is broad—covering a gamut of varieties, vintages, and vineyards —and always well-priced. Which is why we try to taste through their available lineup semi-annually. We seldom come away from a Kiona hunt without treasure, and that’s true with our most recent tasting. We’re offering three reds, showcasing Kiona’s breadth and skill when it comes to that category. We’ve previously offered Kiona’s ‘04, ‘05, and ‘12 Sangios—this one doesn’t come around every year. That’s because Kiona is a grape-growing operation first and foremost. Sometimes they sell all their Sangiovese fruit. And sometimes, in lucky years, they make this estate-grown example. This bottle comes from Kiona Estate and their Ranch At The End Of The Road vineyard. 100% Red Mountain Estate Sangiovese is a rarity for sure, but one taste and it's clear that the varietal thrives under Kiona's watchful eye. Red Mountain provides big diurnal temperature swings and lots of heat accumulation to ripen Sangio with ample acidity. This wine is consistently nervy and bright, with vibrant red fruit. A food pairing superstar. The 2016 vintage offers wonderful fruit—a core of red cherry and pomegranate intensified by Red Mountain’s signature dusty character and touches of sweet spice. The palate balances Washington influence and trademark Sangiovese character: plenty of cherry fruit, bright acidity, decent chew, and just a touch of Aperol-flavored bitters to finish. While it’s still cold out, let this bottle put you in the frame of mind to get a nice pot of bolognese bubbling away.