2003 L'Arco Valpolicella Classico Superiore

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  1/15/2009, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (L'Arco Valpolicella (Classico Superiore)) Arco Dear Friends, Is this wine the equal of Quintarelli? We've told the story before of young Luca Fedrigo, Quintarelli's assistant and vineyard manager who went out on his own to make a series of wine the equal of his master. It doesn't hurt that Quintarelli helps make the wine with him. If you are into the next big thing, you may want to take a close look at this. From the golden zone of Negrar, L'Arco aims to produce the finest wine in Italy with the Latin mantra of "Merum ad Lapideum Arcum" (translation: a genuine and pure wine like an arch made of stone). With the inspiration of Giuseppe Q noted above, Valentini, Giacomo Conterno and the other top-tier masters of their trade this is a heavy-hitter waiting in the batter's box for a pitch down the middle. In addition, the price is enticing for something attempting a play at this level (Quintarelli's Valpolicella Superiore is now over $100 and this wine is made the same way). From some of the finest grapes in the region, what is immediately apparent in the L'Arco is the balance and beautiful red cherry essence that pervades. The fruit shimmers with a velvet and sap filled mid-palate that will seduce and calm the taster into forgetting this is a 2003. Keep in mind, like Portugal, there was no region better suited to the 2003 vintage than the Veneto - they are going for Ripasso and raisined drying of the grapes every year. In a vintage this intense (where the concentration was incredible), the Amarone and top level of Ripasso wines can be more than memorable - such is the case at L'Arco where natural winemaking was taken to new heights in the vintage. Keep in mind, this style of wine is very costly to produce - it takes a disproportionate number of grapes to craft a bottle (as opposed to a regular dry red wine that uses all the pulp and water in the juice - with Valpolicella, a large percentage of the available liquid evaporates into the heavens while the grapes dry on mats). From Luca Fedrigo: "Wine made from traditional Valpolicella grapes (Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara and, in very small percentages, Croatina). Only the best grapes are used to make this wine, harvested and set on lugs and left to raisin-dry in the fruit cellar for about 30-50 days. Then the bunches are pressed and, after alcoholic fermentation, the wine is settled and then decanted into 10-20 hl wooden barrels made of Slavonia oak. The wine is aged in these barrels for approximately 2 years. The wine has a ruby red color, strong and well structured bouquet and is a decidedly fine companion for meat dishes and mellow cheeses. Excellent with game and grilled meats. To fully enjoy all of the organoleptic character of L'Arco Valpolicella, it should be uncorked two hours before serving. Serve at 18-20íC temperature." This producer has the pedigree and results to go places in a hurry. The lineage (and relation to Quintarelli) will almost certainly thrust L'Arco into the limelight - like it or not. While the prices remain quite reasonable, this is your chance to enjoy the wine without worrying about popping the cork on a potential heirloom auction beverage. On the other hand, this early set of vintages could be highly desireable down the road... ONE SHIPMENT ONLY at a terrific price directly from the source: 2003 L'Arco Valpolicella (Classico Superiore) (this is not the Rosso del Veronese) Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Italy1266

• By Jon Rimmerman
  11/27/2007, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (L'ARCO Valpolicella) Quintarelli Dear Friends, Like my last trip to France, some of the best wines I found were from Italy - strange times indeed. This one is pretty special, not just for the particular wine but for what it represents. If you are a fan of Quintarelli, this is for you... Jove’s Arch, a 16th-century stone ruin, is the centerpiece of this winery - the new work of art of Luca Fedrigo. Who is Luca Fedrigo? He is Quintarelli’s foreman and assistant - responsible for a large part of the magic that is trapped in each bottle of Giuseppe's world-renowned wine. When Luca told Giuseppe that he wanted to start his own small winery, Quintarelli was more than happy to assist him (turnabout is fair play - can you imagine Giuseppe Quintarelli as the cellar assistant?). Luca Fedrigo had done such a remarkable job for the elder statesman’s wines that (as a show of respect) he lent his hand in the making of these new wines - the wines of L’Arco. I’m not going to say this will be the most talked about new winery in Italy but it will be close. Scattered cases have floated into the US over the past year or two but they were only available in Texas and a few other states. This shipment of 2003 Valpolicella is one that we’ve been guarding close to our chest but it’s on the way so it’s time to offer the wine. With the Latin inscription “Merum ad Lapideum Arcum” on the bottle (a genuine and pure wine like an arch made of stone), this is traditional in the best sense of the Veneto with the baby-Amarone tone Quintarelli is known for. The L’Arco Valpolicella has 10-20% Amarone in the blend (one of its secrets and one of the reasons it is so costly) - it adds a major bone of satiny plum and spice tones to the raisin-dried character that makes authentic Valpolicella one of the most unique wines in Italy. Since 100-200 BC, this region has been synonymous with the best cherries and grapes in Europe and the influence of Roman and Venetian culture is everywhere - a tug of war that plays out in the food and wine. Like the play of cultures, this wine is a blend of traditional varietals (Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara) and a small amount of four other varietals done in passito. Using a similar method to what was done at Quintarelli, Luca explains: “This wine is made by harvesting the best grapes and placing them on lugs in the fruit cellar where they raisin-dry for about 30 days. During this process the bunches lose approximately 20-25% of their water content, concentrating their sugars and extracts. Then the bunches are pressed and, after alcoholic fermentation, the wine is settled and decanted into 10-20 hl wooden barrels made of Slavonia oak. The wine ages in these barrels for approximately 2 years, achieving its ruby red color, intense bouquet and fine structure.” He urges decanting for at least two hours and recommends a match of grilled meats and “mellow cheeses”. This wine is a cacophony of red berry aromatics and flavors with tremendous spice and cedar character - it is rich and round from the passito and Amarone dose but also velvety and seductive (2003 was probably at its best in this region because they want high sugars to dry and raisin the grapes). There is nothing added to this wine and no commercial enzymes or other are used (he adds a very small amount of S02 and that’s it). It is medium bodied, elegant and regal with great natural acidity and an earthen character that adds its own impact to the whole. In a word - lovely. So, for about one-third the price of Quintarelli’s Valpolicella, you get this rendition with the help of the master himself. A new classic that you are going to hear a lot about in the coming years. VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED and VERY HARD TO FIND! ONE SHIPMENT ONLY at this price. 2003 L’Arco Valpolicella Superiore Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Italy7580