1900 D'Oliveiras Madeira Moscatel Graúdo

Community Tasting Notes (2) Avg Score: 97.5 points

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  9/5/2022 - forceberry wrote: 99 Points

  Unlike the 1900 d'Oliveiras Moscatel, which is made from Muscat Blanc, this is made from Moscatel Graúdo ("big Muscat") aka. Muscat of Alexandria - both varieties are exceedingly rare in Madeira and typically farmed for table grapes. Aged in Canteiros, ie. in warm warehouses in which the wines age in casks that are never topped up. 20% alcohol. Bottled in 2020, after a mind-boggling 120 years of aging in casks (although it might be possible that at some point the wine is moved to age in glass demijohns, in which the wine doesn't lose any more water to evaporation, ceasing to concentrate any further).
  
  Dark, almost fully opaque brown and somewhat viscous appearance. The node feels quite restrained, somewhat dusty and slightly volatile with aromas of old mahogany and cedar, some lifted notes of nail polish and medicinal ether, a little bit of maple syrup and molasses, light perfumed notes of dried flowers, a hint of nutty rancio, a touch of dried dates and a whiff of boozy alcohol. Contrasting the somewhat subdued nose, the wine is unbelievably intense on the palate. At first it feels very rich and sweet - almost unctuous compared to other, less sweet Oliveiras Madeiras - with a oily, viscous mouthfeel and somewhat mellow overall feel. Then the incisive, laser-sharp acidity kicks in, jacking up the freshness and flavor intensity into next gear like an electric jolt. There are complex and very powerful flavors of syrupy treacle and caramel, dried-fruit flavors of raisins and dried dates, some peppery spice, a somewhat noticeable streak of burnt sugar bitterness, a little bit of bitter orange marmalade, light balsamic nuances, a hint of Sultanas and a touch of juicy, overripe fig. Even if the wine feels more like a Madeira concentrate than a regular Frasqueira Madeira, the overall feel is still remarkably fresh and structured, all thanks to its bracing acidity. The finish is rich, powerful and intense with exceptionally persistent and concentrated flavors of treacle and syrupy richness with intermingling nuances of savory spices, some dried-fruit notes of Sultanas and dried dates, a little bit of tangy lemony character, light rich notes of bitter orange marmalade, a hint of sweet mocha coffee and a touch of pink grapefruit. The wine leaves a lasting, very rich and syrupy-sweet aftertaste that gets counterpointed by a quite pronounced streak of burnt sugar bitterness, offsetting nicely most of the sticky sweetness.
  
  An extraordinay Madeira with exceptional sense of power, concentration and intensity. It's obvious that this wine has been very sweet to begin with, and this quality has been only amplified over the years as the wine has aged in casks, losing its water content and concentrating its residual sugar and acidity (along with the volatile acidity as well). It's obvious that there must be quite a bit of VA here, but it's almost magical how the sheer power and intensity of the wine masks almost all of it away. Furthermore, even if the wine has been concentrated to an almost syrupy consistency, the exceptional, racy acidity manages to keep the wine from coming one bit unctuous - even if the wine seemed almost like cloyingly sweet motor oil with the first sip, before you had time to register the ridiculous acidity lingering beneath all the sugar. This is truly a magical wine and up there with the best Madeiras I've ever tasted along with the less sweet and unctuous but equally complex and electric 1895 Oliveiras Malvazija. At 1100€ this is not an affordable wine, but then again, is there any other wine that can give you a similar kind of experience at a lower price?

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  5/17/2022 - Xavier Auerbach wrote: 96 Points

  A private dinner (Restaurant Vanderveen, Amsterdam, NL): Bottling date not specified, but probably 2020 - a whopping 120 years on oak. Great concentration and depth, sweet Moscatel, lots of wood spice, firm bitters, huge power and sweetness but without any excess, lovely hit of caramel on the rich finish. Not hugely complex, but a great privilege.

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