2021 Emilio Lustau Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Don Nuño Dry Oloroso

Community Tasting Notes (1) Avg Score: 91 points

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  12/9/2023 - Rote Kappelle Likes this wine: 91 Points

  As I sit wreathed in cigar smoke (other than the farts deriving from rich lamb dishes, can there be a more pleasing fug?), every door and window close barred to ensure no fume escapes, I feel that a wonderfully slow weekend has met its crowning glory. One slightly dissonant note intrudes. Where is a suitably good drink to go with this holy smoke?
  
  I do have some '68 Delord Armagnac and a work-a-day du Breuil Calvados, but I find that I want sherry. All I have to hand is this Lustau - for in the provincial town that is Canberra, Foggy Bottom of the USA's southernmost colony/protectorate, truly great sherry is hard to find. If only the Spanish had got here first, the Americans could have taken over in due course as they did in the Philippines, but at least there would be a sherry culture. Such is the play of history.
  
  Colour is a pleasing bronze and umber, the nose and palate (as one would expect from Lustau) are correct expressions of Oloroso. No wonder Poe could write of hideous murder and revenge over a cask of fine Sherry (yes, it was Amontillado but let us not be nit pickers). We have intoxicating citrus notes, some nutty richness that finishes very clean and quite dry and I feel a touch of caramel. I don't really get the smokiness of which the maker speaks but maybe it is subsumed in the cigar funk.
  
  What we are missing is the depth of truly great Oloroso but this is a pretty good sketch of fine Oloroso and for today that is enough. However, I must be better organised and lay in a good supply of the really good stuff. Naturally, I shall be careful of any guest named Montresor. Time to feed the black cat.

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