2005 Jean Baptiste Thibaut Saint-Bris

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  1/30/2008, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (SAINT BRIS Thibaut) Saint-Bris Dear Friends, If you are looking for an alternative to the ever increasing prices of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume (no to mention Chablis), this could be your new everyday example. In a nutshell - it’s 2005, it’s Burgundy and it’s from an appellation that gets little notice in the US - Saint-Bris. Why? Because they produce Sauvignon Blanc and not Chardonnay. Saint-Bris is an area in the heart of the Auxerrois, a sister appellation to Chablis with a northerly feel and steely, mineral infused soul. It is across the A6 Autoroute from the Chablis Grand Cru Vineyards and those with a nose for bargains know Saint-Bris is one of Burgundy’s most alluring, emerging appellations (similar to Chitry) with a host of young talented winemakers making wine without the pressures of the Cote d’Or (they don’t need to make wine to a formula to make sure it sells). In general, these are wines that harken to a by-gone era when Chablis was still Chablis - off-putting, biting and meant to cut through the heaviest of Parisian of sauces - they are not unctuous, round and sappy (elements that have plagued many vintages in the Cote d’Or since 1999, a disappointing fact to many long-time fans of white Burgundy). There are many theories for why Saint-Bris and Chitry are having such a resurgence (global warming is the obvious one) but there is no doubt that the 2005 vintage created wines in this area similar to 2004 in the Cote d’Or. If you are a fan of the more terroir-focussed wines of the 2004 white Burgundy vintage, Thibaut’s Saint Bris will make you smile - it’s like an interesting combination of Sancerre (maybe closer to Pouilly Fume) with a mineral component and extract ratio akin to Chablis. It is an exciting and important look into a region that is going to become very well known around the world over the next decade as the southern reaches of Burgundy (and the Cote d' Beaune) continue to have difficulty replicating the wine that made them famous for centuries (due to a warming trend that has, in some way, benefited the reds but not the whites). Unlike many producers that are making Saint Bris but are trucking grapes back to Puligny or Chassagne to produce a Saint-Bris under their label, Thibaut’s domaine is in the close-knit triangle of Saint-Bris, Chitry and Quenne which is the epicenter of the young gun think-tank. The grapes used here are first rate and they are treated like a top-class Chablis 1er. Medium bodied with no new oak and light in alcohol, 12.0-12.5%, this is a great choice as a Tuesday night wine any time of the year and it pairs with many dinner choices that would be overwhelmed by the new oak and sap of proper white Burgundy. However you slice it, you can’t go wrong with this old-school, artisanal example that ushers in a new era for white Burgundy that will be a first for most of you. A far as ageing, it’s anyone’s guess but I’ve had well-stored examples of Saint Bris (then called Sauvignon de Saint Bris) that were a decade old and they showed a similar character to aged Chablis (even though they are made with Sauvignon). My best assessment is that this will last at least 3-5 years as the material in 2005 was excellent and full of the extract/acid balance you look for in a vintage to keep. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED as a terrific value (especially in today’s sub-prime dollar world) ONE SHIPMENT ONLY directly from the cellars at Thibaut (only 300 cases produced - 50 for the US) 2005 Thibaut “Saint-Bris” (Sauvignon) Please give us your maximum number up to 12 and we will allocate accordingly Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Burg7670