A private lunch (Restaurant The Clove Club *, London, UK): Bottled 2016. Intense and concentrated but not austere or forbidding, hint of lovage from the long oak ageing, caramel and apricot, deep and layered, honey, seashell minerality, just a hint of wood, excellent length. Quite a gentle style for a d'Oliveira of this venerable age.
Glinting amber-green eye. Upon opening, so powerful and dense that it is practically untastable; still the same six hours later. At twenty four hours, beginning to emerge from its musclebound state. Powerful high end nose of shellac, caramel, peanut butter cookies, fennel, pine needles, but still partially unresolved. Full richness with searing acidity, with a full synopsis on a two minuit plus finish. 99 plus. Rarely have I ever scored a wine so high that gave me so little pure pleasure.
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(D'Oliveiras Madeira Boal Reserva) Medium dark brown color with yellow meniscus; very appealing, toasted almond, walnut, roast coffee nose; very tasty, rich but balanced, roast coffee, tart lemon, walnut, toasted almond, smoky palate with notes of apricot; long finish
(D'Oliveiras Madeira Boal Reserva) Dark brown color with yellow green meniscus and ruby lights; damp earth, rich roasted coffee, baked walnut nose, rich and warming; tasty, rich, warming, orange pekoe, orange zest, coffee cake, dried fruit palate with medium, zingy acidity; very long finish
(D'Oliveiras Madeira Boal Reserva) Dark coffee brown color with red lights and medium yellow meniscus; big VA, tart caramel and bitter chocolate nose; rich, wonderful, bittersweet chocolate, lemon, roasted coffee palate with structure and focus; long finish
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