NV Jean Bourdy Galant des Abbesses

JancisRobinson.com

• By Jancis Robinson, MW
  9/25/2012, (See more on JancisRobinson.com...)

  (NV Jean Bourdy, Galant des Abbesses n de Liqueur White) Subscribe to see review text.

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  1/29/2009, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (NV Caves Bourdy "Galant des Abesses") Galant Dear Friends, Here's a late-night confirmation that I've been waiting for since mid-December. Of all the wines tasted at the Blue Hill/Bourdy event, this example was heaped with near universal acclaim as one of the most unusual, exotic and complex dessert wines most in attendance had ever placed before their palate. The mÄlange of freshly ground Indian and Asian spices that cascade from the wine are unlike anything else. Bourdy's Galant des Abbesses is a legend in France and they are the only estate that has the means to produce it - one estate, that's it. The recipe and production are so cumbersome, few have the wherewithal to copy it (think Ricola meets Eiswein meets 100 year old PX). Part dessert wine, part tonic - instead of trying to explain the wine or exclaim the superlative and ponderous quality that it provides, I will translate the words of Jean-Francois Bourdy below: "...a macvin prepared according to a secret recipe of 1579 created by the nuns of the Abbey of Chëteau-Chalon. The Abbey owned the vineyards of Chëteau Chalon in the 16th century and wrote of this special wine that it was "notre vin de galant". The Bourdy Family holds the original recipe, the only in the world. We are the only estate capable of producing this singular wine, considered the equal of France's greatest dessert wines, as it was made in the 16th century. The must is placed in a copper kettle to which 25 different alpine herbs and spices are precisely measured to the gram. The mix is heated and reduced during many hours - more than one day. The reduced must is placed in old barrels with 1/3 very old Marc or Fine de Franche ComtÄ, some more than 100 years old. The mixture then ages for a minimum of 5 years and is bottled for only a very few. When opened, the Galant pairs with dark chocolate or nut cake, with vanilla cream, raisins or nuts. Cooked fresh figs dressed with almond butter and drizzled with Galant is a glorious match. Pears may be poached in Galant. A most intoxicating way of using the Galant is to deglaze and serve over filet mignon or white meat. This gives a main course never to be forgotten" I can't really follow that with any comment except the wine lives up to its history. Each bottle is hand made - a few hundred bottles produced each fall from the fresh pressings of the year (the Galant cannot be made with must that has already aged - it is a race against time once the grapes are pressed). The Galant des Abessess is one of the lowest priced top-tier dessert wines produced in Europe. It received a near perfect rating from the Guide Fleurus last year (I believe it received a higher rating than Yquem) and its history is among the most storied of any vinous example in the history of French culture. A well stored bottle of Galant can last for decades. An exquisite concoction that rises above any classification. (this is a full bottle, not a split - it will last, open in your cellar, for weeks) Caves Bourdy "Galant des Abesses" (750ml) (Bottles previously released in Europe are mostly 375ml, 620ml or possibly 700ml, none are 750ml which makes this limited series imminently collectable) EXTREMELY LIMITED - VERY RARE Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA SOFR6311