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Community Tasting Notes (34) Avg Score: 90.1 points

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JancisRobinson.com

Garagiste

  • By Jon Rimmerman
    12/13/2010, (See more on Garagiste...)

    (GOLD-QUADRAT Sybille Kuntz) 2009 Dear Friends, You need to try these. Ok, no one needs to try anything but you get the point and I would be remiss if I didn’t prod you to pour as much of this tongue-twisting parcel across your palate as possible. Immortal? That’s a big word and one I do not take lightly so let’s just say 2009 was one of the finest dry Riesling vintages of the last 30 in Germany and you will understand the drama and excitement... Where other white wine regions struggled in 2009, it played right into the hands of the Mosel. The wines have depth and a natural extractive that is simply awe-inspiring. What makes the vintage even more amazing is that the grandiose material could have produced flabby, blurry wines – not so here. The material is buffered by a textured liquid minerality and highly citric backbone that makes your spine tingle. Hyperbole? I don’t think so. Which brings us to Sybille Kuntz – an unknown face of illumination that outlines just how important the new Germany has become (when I refer to the “new” Germany, I mean the artisan/untapped/BIO Germany and/or that of Mosel Wine Merchant, although they have nothing to do with this producer.) In a similar vein to last night’s Nathalie Falmet Champagne, Sybille Kuntz is about to make a raucous noise on the world stage and 2009 is the perfect platform to shout from. Based in the golden zone of the Mosel (Lieser) and unlike the traditional German producers you are more familiar with (Terry Theise portfolio, etc), Sybille Kuntz specializes in dry Riesling – shrill and bone dry in many cases, unctuous and sappy in others. This is not your father’s Mosel-Saar-Ruwer where the higher the pradikat, the more successful the wine, this is the Mosel of fresh faces - those that see the true potential of great terroir in dry expression. With a style reminiscent of Nikolaihof mixed with Huet Le Mont, the wine of Sybille Kuntz has a particular shimmer while it coats and slathers the memory and the palate. Never heavy or obtuse, this is cylindrical and natural wine cut from the slate and fruit of her steep hillside and that’s exactly what she wishes for in every bottle. Her wish is our command. ONE PARCEL ONLY of the electric 2009’s directly from the winery cellar with perfect provenance: 2009 Sybille Kuntz Riesling Kabinett trocken (Mosel) - If you enjoy stone, cut, fruit and terroir and enjoy a bottle of dry, site-infused, un-oaked white wine several times per week, Sybille's Kabinett trocken is one of the top bargain-buys of the year. I shed a tear when my two bottles were gone - that’s all I will say. In addition, hardly any is exported so you will not find this on every street corner in the US. 2009 Sybille Kuntz Riesling Spatlese Gold-Quadrat trocken (Lieser Niederberg-Helden) - (compare at $25-30+) The new gold standard (sorry, couldn’t resist), this is a “wow” effort from their top old-vine holdings in Lieser Niederberg-Helden. Previous vintages have been very good to excellent but this is 2009 (an incredible trocken year) and her portion of LNH is picked with the best trocken in mind. From vines up to 80 years of age, the Gold-Quadrat is a labor of love and its power, precision and glycerol-rich length cover all the bases from front to middle to a finish that never seems to end. I was tempted to place this in my top five wines of the year but quantities are too small (I may do so anyway, but I still have a few weeks to think about it). Both wines are VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED FIRST COME FIRST SERVED up to 24/each wine until we run out To order: niki@garagistewine.com This parcel is set to depart the cave – it will arrive in February (please check OARS for local pick up after Feb 15th). It will ship during the Spring shipping season and will last for years to come. Out of state orders will be held for free under ideal storage conditions (56 degrees/70%humidity) until shipping is possible. Locals may pick up at their leisure. For current local pick up and arrival/ship information, please see your OARS link below (at the bottom of this offer) - don’t know how to access your OARS? Simply click the link and see your account. You can also paste the link into your browser. If you are having trouble with your link or your account, please contact: support@garagistewine.com NO SALES TO RETAILERS OR WHOLESALERS Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Germ8881 Germ8882 Click here to view the status of your orders in O.A.R.S.

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