2004 Roberto Voerzio Langhe Nebbiolo Vigneti S. Francesco Fontanazza

The WINEFRONT

• By Gary Walsh
  2/8/2008, (See more on The WINEFRONT...)

  (Roberto Voerzio Nebbiolo Langhe DOC) Login and subscribe to see review text.

• By Stephen Tanzer
  November/December 2007, IWC Issue #135, (See more on Vinous...)

  (Roberto Voerzio Nebbiolo Vigneti S. Francesco Fontanazza Langhe) Login and sign up and see review text.

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  7/24/2007, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (Roberto VOERZIO Langhe Nebbiolo San Fran/Fontan) 2004 Nebbiolo Dear Friends, I’ve braced Niki for this one so please be patient. The pent up demand for 2004 Barolo and Barbaresco is even greater than during the release of the 1989s as there are so many additional wine drinkers that are in love with this area than when the 1989’s were released (even I’m about as excited as can be). Piedmont is one of my very favorite wine regions and it was a wine from this area (a 1971 Barolo) that started my life-long love affair with the grandeur that this hobby can provide. 2004 in this region is being hailed as their 2005 Burgundy vintage and for good reason - the wines are simply stellar. I will get this out of the way first: Roberto Voerzio is one of the most expensive producers in Piedmont and the 2004 wines are going to be expensive - very expensive (so are most of the other Baroli). I long for the days when the 1990 string of Voerzio Baroli (and 1991s - which were excellent for the vintage) were found at a fair price. Voerzio increased his pricing with the 1993s and has never looked back. He now challenges Gaja for pricing supremacy and most of his wines make Giacosa seem like a good deal. The quality of the wines is quite difficult to fault but the prices - yikes. That’s why this wine is so special. Voerzio makes this wine with the same fastidious hand as his Baroli (and his new 10 year Riserva wine) but it is priced the way his wines used to be circa 1990. Considering 2004 is the only true vintage to rival 1989 since 1989, this is coming full circle (fans of 1990, 1996, 1999 and 2001 please don’t email me - all great vintages but they are not 1989). Last year’s 2003 version of this wine received high accolades from Veronelli (if I remember, it received 91 or 92 and a ‘newcomer’ designation) and it doesn’t hold a candle to what was produced in 2004 as the elegance and breed of 2004 cannot be denied. From a small 3.75 acre parcel of vines in the San Francesco/Fontanazza vineyards at over 1000ft in elevation, barely 500 cases were produced of this. The Langhe San Francesco is Voerzio’s baby Barolo that he releases ahead of the DOC Baroli and when he gets it right (as in 1997) it is one of the best values in the high end reminiscent of his La Serra bottling. This is what the Burgundian love affair with Nebbiolo is all about - pure rose-water satin meshed with power and grace with an explosive nose of wildflowers from the hillsides and a personality that will not quit. For 2004, this will probably be one of the better wines in its class and I recommend it very highly - modern or not. As most of you know, I am as averse to oak as anyone in this field but a wine like this transcends its use of cooperage - it’s a beautiful effort regardless of predilection and a wine that should grace your dinner table at least once. If you are a lover of Barolo and Barbaresco or are just getting started with the majesty of Piedmont, this would be a very good place to start - the 2005 Forts de Latour of Piedmont? Only 50 cases for the entire US market. We have an exceptional price on this item, about the same as in Europe. VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED as a window into the greatness of 2004 around Alba. ONE SHIPMENT ONLY directly form the winery cellar with perfect provenance: 2004 Roberto Voerzio Langhe Nebbiolo “Vigneti San Francesco Fontanazza” Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Italy7710