A Night of Truly Diverse Wines

Newtown, Sydney
Tasted Thursday, June 16, 2016 by JonnyG with 474 views

Introduction

We were fortunate that virtually every wine showed extremely well on this enjoyable night.

Flight 1 (16 Notes)

  • 2008 Agrapart Champagne Grand Cru Minéral Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 92 Points

    France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

    Nothing to complain about here. Expressive nose evidencing sweet saline and citrus notes, with a mild herbal element emerging as the temperature came up a bit. Lemon oil and candied fruit on the palate, a touch of sweetness and nice balance overall.

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  • 2005 Bollinger Champagne La Grande Année 90 Points

    France, Champagne

    Surprisingly advanced, though I didn't find it as oxidative as some others. Dense nose of nutty brioche, with some honey. Tart and a bit monolithic on the palate, less expressive than expected yet still very much in the Bollinger style.

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  • NV Equipo Navazos La Bota de Manzanilla 55 91 Points

    Spain, Andalucía, Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda

    OK, not my thing exactly but I could still very much appreciate this well made Fino. Very clean mouthfeel. Layers of nutty marzipan. Long finish.

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  • 2010 Pierre Morey Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

    Enticing nose of smoke and gravel. Precise and restrained in the glass, with great tension. Cut flowers and muted white fruit. Not overly generous, though hardly austere. Real class.

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  • 2010 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrières 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Crisp, mineral-laden nose with citrus notes. Tart apple and pear flavors that softened and rounded out as the wine came up in temperature. Popped a bit on the finish, providing some nutmeg alongside the fruit. Years away from peak drinking.

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  • 1983 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile Sélection de Grains Nobles 90 Points

    France, Alsace

    Shy nose of petrol, honey, herbs and grass. Less concentrated than expected, and slightly lacking acidity. Notes of marmalade and ginger but missing some complexity.

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  • 1996 Domaine François Cotat Sancerre Les Culs de Beaujeu 92 Points

    France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre

    A provocative, almost divisive wine, one which I very much enjoyed. A strong funk resembling apple cider vinegar quickly blew off, giving way to softer apple skin notes and some faint truffles. Very clean on the palate, with additional citrus aspects and bright acidity. Youthful and intriguing.

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  • 1990 Domaine Jean Grivot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    A perfect fill established high expectations, and this did not disappoint. Came alive after mere moments in the glass, and only improved over many hours of joyous monitoring. Haunting, perfumed nose of plum and soy, with leather, dried mushroom and violets emerging over time. Savory and clean flavors, with a sort of cheesecloth element as well. A perfectly mature Burg of class and distinction.

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  • 2008 Domaine Bertheau (Pierre et François) Bonnes Mares 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

    Very approachable already, with a rich, confected nose of dark fruit and cut flowers. A sweet raspberry dominated palate, with loads of acidity and no hint of green. Grippy tannins. Should integrate in a few years and merit a further upgrade.

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  • 2008 Comte Armand Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru

    It was really nice to have a textured and muscular Pommard alongside some more refined Burgundies. A decidedly funky and acrid nose gave way to rustic, tangy blackberry and licorice notes, rustic in an entirely complimentary sense, with many years ahead of it. A bit dry on the finish.

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  • 2005 Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Reignots 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    Approachable and fruit-forward, if a bit primary, with aromatics of perfumed blue and black fruit, along with some pepper. Robust and rich palate, but a bit monolithic for me, whereas it really spoke to others and garnered a few determined WOTN votes (were we to have polled). I would hold 5 years+, but lovers of the style need not wait.

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  • 1978 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Bussia Soprana 94 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Easily overlooked amongst some peak-drinking heavy hitters, I cherished every sip of this beautiful, fully mature expression of Nebbiolo. Shy, perfumed nose with a hint of smoke. I picked up mild balsamic flavors, with black olives, rose petals, truffles and coffee. Plenty of lift, and fully resolved tannins provide welcome structure.

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  • 1997 Soldera (Az. Agr. Case Basse) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 96 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

    Decanted for sediment and allowed to breathe for about an hour. A superb bottle despite a 6,000 mile journey a mere 36 hours prior. virtually screaming of purity and class. Powerful black cherry nose. Pure red fruit bolstered by intense minerality, providing perfect balance to the opulence of the fruit. Grippy tannins. Couldn't put this down. Seemingly ageless / hopefully indestructible.

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  • 1985 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle 93 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

    A fascinating example of the rewards one can get from a wine presumably past its peak, but with so much to say. Loads of brett on the nose, alongside coffee grounds and grapevines. Gentle black fruit palate accompanied by leather, mocha and earthy tones. Quite watery and lacking in concentration, but somehow that seemed entirely fitting. I was thrilled to savor this throughout the evening.

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  • 2004 Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf-du-Pape 91 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Straightforward and true to form, with a nose of sweet red fruit and a raspberry-dominated palate. Easy drinking, if a touch one dimensional.

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  • 2010 Luke Lambert Nebbiolo 89 Points

    Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley

    Not my cuppa, but still an admirable and well made Nebbiolo that will benefit from time. Shy, balsamic nose with a touch of green. Easy drinker, a bit too acidic at this stage, and clipped on the finish. Would love to revisit sometime.

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Closing

Funny that we ended up with only two Australians, not by intent but by coincidence: one was a Nebbiolo and the other (not noted above) a yet-to-be-released debut wine of a promising new label called "Crimson."

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