Ai Fiori Restaurant in the Langham Place Hotel, NYC
Tasted Friday, October 19, 2018 by kenv with 238 views
Gaia Gaja, daughter of Angelo Gaja, was in town for the Wine Spectator’s New York Wine Experience. She had limited free time but was able to get together for lunch on Friday, October 19, 2018. Her presence, a great group of friends, and an amazing set of wines turned this into one of the most special wine meals of my life.
Lunch began at 2pm and ended around 4:30. The food and service at Ai Fiori are fabulous.
Photos and more details can be found on my website.
I presented Gaia with several options for the wines I would bring. When I mentioned these, she jumped at the chance to try them. In its own way, this flight was as special as any of the others.
The Gaja winery made Barolo from grapes purchased mostly from the commune of Serralunga d'Alba until 1964, then stopped making Barolo to focus on Barbaresco from vineyards that they owned. One of their suppliers of Barolo grapes was Violante Sobrero of Sobrero Filippo e Figli who, at that time, owned a parcel in Monprivato and a parcel in Villero, both in Castiglione Falletto. Violante Sobrero eventually sold these parcels in 1985 to Mauro Mascarello of Giuseppe Mascarello e Figlio. Another of their suppliers was Villadoria from whom they bought the vineyards used to make Sperss. These two wines were likely made from these vineyards. Certainly their taste was consistent with these great vineyards.
This was a wonderful flight with three distinct Barbarescos from the same vintage. The base Barbaresco is like a blend from all their Barbaresco vineyards. The Barbaresco Infernot is a selection of the best barrels kept in the deepest part of the cellar, essentially a riserva. The 1970 Barbaresco Sorì Tildìn was the first single-vineyard Barbaresco made from this vineyard in the Roncagliette MGA. 1970 was only the 2nd vintage in which Gaja made single-vineyard wines. The 1967 Sorì San Lorenzo was its only predecessor.
These wines were certainly more familiar to me and it was a joy to drink them again. The 1988 Sorì San Lorenzo was better than any bottle I had had before. The two 1989s were sublime, but oh so young. I hope I will live to taste these 1989s in full maturity.
By popular demand, I pulled this bottle at the last minute before catching my train to NYC. It really was a great way to finish this glorious meal.
Not much more I can say. Special in every way.
2004 Gaja Langhe Chardonnay Gaia & Rey 94 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
[Brought by Gaia. Pop and pour.] Stunning nose of slate, lemon crème brûlée, and a bit of peach. Expansive in the mouth. Just starting to show its stuff. Should continue to improve for another decade. 94-96
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