Calling an Audible

This was a fun dinner with four couples at Brad and Marcia's (BB/MB, JG/CG, KB/VB, JV/MV). Brad did a marvelous job with the cooking and Marcia's dessert was excellent. We had a nice mix of Loire wines.

• NV Janisson & Fils Champagne Tradition Brut 91 Points

  France, Champagne

  Light gold color. Drank a glass plus over an hour. First time having this producer, and I'd like to give them some love. This was very pleasant, with a mix of green orchard fruit, with a twist of citrus that takes on some toast in the glass. Very even and easy drinking. 90+ to 91pts.

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• 2002 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut 97 Points

  France, Champagne

  Light gold color. Drank a glass over an hour. It's been a couple years since I've had this. It is still sailing along with nothing to suggest otherwise in the near future. What beauty this is. This is captivating with so much nuance in the aromatics and on the palate. The nose is evocative with gorgeous floral notes and sea breeze, sweet chantilly cream, roasted almonds, Anjou pear, vanilla bean, white peach, toast and brioche, so bright and lively. That palate is focused and precise with the green fruits and stone fruit shining. Lovely presence with a caressing creamy mousse, bright and engaging as this is filled with intensity but buffered by finesse and nuance at every corner. Crystalline minerality that tingles as this goes on and on. Riveting.

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• 2002 Domaine Huet Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Haut-Lieu

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

  Medium dark gold color. Drank a glass over an hour. This showed significant oxidation, aadvanced, baked apricot, baked apple, blood orange, wooly, alcohol, fading. Drinkable but not what one would hope for.

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• 1990 Couly-Dutheil Chinon Clos de l'Echo 92 Points

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon

  Medium dark red color. PNP, drank a glass over 90 minutes plus next to the '90 Clos de l'Olive. This was in good shape, a smidge darker than the Olive. Cherry, lacquer, leather, a bit of funk, deep earth, saddle leather on the nose. The palate adds a deeper char and gravelly mineral notes, deep cherry, leather, a hint of berry, leather, funk and a spicy finish on a medium frame with soft tannins. I give this a very slight edge over the Olive.

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• 1990 Couly-Dutheil Chinon Clos de l'Olive 92 Points

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon

  Medium dark red minus color. PNP, drank a glass over 90 minutes plus next to the '90 Clos de l'Echo. This was in nice shape too. Really earthy, scorched earth, dark cherry, and mineral notes on the nose. The palate is soft and expressive; cherry, black cherry, metallic, scorched earth, well integrated. Very similar to the Echo, and I give a subtle edge to the Echo. 91+ to 92pts.

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• 2011 Le Cadeau Pinot Noir Rocheux 93 Points

  USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley

  Slightly cloudy medium plus red color. PNP, drank a glass over an hour. This was a redux of a bottle back in August. This was excellent again. Tart cherry, hints of red currants, very earthy with distinct damp forest floor, a bit murky, fleshy red fruits, with lovely spice notes. Loved it.

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• 2009 Château La Tour Blanche Sauternes 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Dark gold color. Drank a glass over 30 minutes. This was wonderful with Marcia's lemon olive cake. Pineapple, floral, lemon, oarnge, honeycomp, tart, light medium bodied, with a touch of bitter orange marmalade and creme brulee on the finish.

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