Offline with Barbara Burlingame

Rotisserie Jules, South Kensington
Tasted Thursday, February 9, 2006 by Rani with 892 views

Introduction

After a somewhat confusing run-up, a few of us gathered to share some wine and fabulously grilled meat with the lovely Barbara as our non-UK guest.

Flight 1 (3 Notes)

As the starters at RJ are really not worth bothering with, we started with rotisserie chicken, which was delicious... (is there any wine that doesn't go well with roast chicken?)

  • 1997 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvée 91 Points

    France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

    80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. This champagne obviously needs a few more years to show its true colours. Medium to fine mousse, big bodied, with lots of underlying fruit, herbal notes and a lemony finish. Just hints of butter starting to show but otherwise very tight.

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  • 1997 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles 88 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Gold in colour, notes of white flowers, butter and apricot on the nose. Oily in texture, but with noticeable oak on the finish. Nice, but a bit simple.

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  • 1999 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Bâtard-Montrachet 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

    This had a weird cloudy consistency - clearly some fault with this bottle, though no signs of oxidation! Slightly muted nose, with orange zest, minerals and melted butter. On the palate quite structured, with good fruit and well-integrated oak. Long finish. After some time in the glass the wine opened up a bit more. Clearly not the best example of this, but still very good.

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Flight 2 (6 Notes)

On to an ecclectic (and randomly ordered) collection of Bordeaux. Halfway through this flight we switched to the enormous leg of lamb, which was fantastic. Russell and I were debating whether we should order 1 or 2 legs. We ended up ordering one, and it was quite enough for 7 people. Jeff had pulled out the wrong bottle from his cellar and his "mistake" ended up being the 1986 LLC. We could live with that mistake.

  • 1997 Château Magdelaine 84 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    A very nice nose of chalk, red cherries and licorice. The "1997 curse" hits you on the palate, however - dilute, unexciting and short.

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  • 1990 Château Magdelaine 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    Ruby colour, no signs of aging. Lots of berries on the nose, raspberry jam and licorice. Quite a light-bodied wine, with fine tannins and medium length. Enjoyable and elegant.

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  • 1999 Château La Fleur-Pétrus 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    This one's always a crowd pleaser. Dark ruby. Blackberry jam jumping out of the glass. On the palate it starts quite plummy, mixed in with some toasted oak and dark chocolate. Medium bodied but with a nice texture and round tannins. I'm glad I have more of this - will probably improve for another 2-3 years.

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  • 1985 Château La Dominique 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    A smooth and fully mature wine, this may have been better a couple of years ago, but I still found it very good. Rosemary and thyme on the nose, along with a whiff of red fruit. Silky on the palate, fully rounded and smooth all the way to the finish. This was is a very low scoring RP wine, so interesting to see that this bottle was very different from the "green sap" mentioned in his notes.

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  • 2001 Château Pavie 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    Not as pronounced on the nose as I'd expected. Great concentration on the palate, with black fruit, some savoury elements (in a good way) and a finish that I found too chocolatey. Undeniably good, but somewhat monolithic. It's nice to have one of these in a line-up of more demure wines - I'm not sure I'd be able to handle a Pavie vertical though.

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  • 1986 Château Léoville Las Cases 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    This bottle was ever so slightly TCA tainted (the smell was unmistakeable), but was impressive nonetheless. It showed impeccable balance and restrained power. Blackcurrant, leather and cigar tobacco, with a very silky texture and perhaps a slightly shorter finish than a perfect bottle would have. Great stuff, and still young.

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Flight 3 (2 Notes)

The rest of the evening was to focus on Italians, and turned out to be the highlight of the evening, wine-wise.

  • 2001 Braida (Giacomo Bologna) Barbera d'Asti Bricco della Bigotta 90 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Barbera d'Asti

    Ruby with a purple hue. Lots of licorice, black cherries and a hint of bacon on the nose. On the palate very nicely balanced, with lots of acidity but also ripe fruit and some unintrusive oak. This will improve over the next couple of years.

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  • 1998 Paolo Bea Montefalco Sagrantino Secco 94 Points

    Italy, Umbria, Montefalco, Montefalco Sagrantino

    This wine had lots of everything - very concentrated, with high acidity but ultra-ripe fruit, coupled with earth and clay notes. Persistent on the palate, balanced in its own slightly crazy way, and should go well with strongly flavoured dishes (though it was excellent with the roasted leg of lamb too). Superb.

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Flight 4 (1 Note)

  • 1999 Maculan Acininobili 97 Points

    Italy, Veneto, Breganze

    Wow was this good... dark gold, with a nose of roasted pineapple (thanks for pinpointing that one Russell) and exotic spices. Very sweet, with botrytis and tarte tatin, but also flavours of almonds and roasted nuts. Long long finish. Amazing stuff and a discovery for me.

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Closing

For me, the evening really ended on a high note. We had some very good wines throughout the evening, but the two last wines were my WOTNs - and thank you Barbara for bringing them both! Come again soon... ;-). It's even more gratifying that both of these wines were new to most of us around the table, so have the added value of discovering a new treasure. I can still taste that Acininobili (even though we followed it by sharing a tub of Ben & Jerry's Vanilla ice cream).

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