"Open something that hurts club" Seattle Chapter get together

It was that time again to sit down and enjoy some great wines, conversation and a dirty joke or two with the Seattle "Male Chavenists". This group was assembled with the thought of opening great wines and enjoying them as they should be. Morton's private room was the setting, and they did a fantastic job with the lobsters, steaks and a private room that's perfect or a group like this.

• 1996 Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

  SuperCoche to the rescue! This wine started out as the class of the flight. More elegance and refinement than the Meursault from this master, but obviously very "coche" in style. Extraordinary balance and length with a mid-palate weight that was massively dense but still maintained an elegant texture and mouthfeel that Coche is known for. Everything a '96 should/could be if so many weren't premoxed. A special wine deserving of the hype. This wine has a long life ahead.

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• 1993 Domaine Michel Niellon Chevalier-Montrachet Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

  The color of this wine was worrisome prior to even taking a smell of this. Not totally oxidized but, in present company, not one to linger on long. Too bad.

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• 1989 Domaine Michel Niellon Chevalier-Montrachet

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

  Opened as back-up to the '93. The second this wine was poured the room began praising various spiritual entities that the '93 was shot. Second lightest color in the flight second only to the Raveneau. This wine had a mintyness in the background typically found in Ramonet that turned into an almost grassy aroma. Arguably one of the most complex noses of the whites, although certainly the most ready as well. For how great the nose was, the lemon/lime laden palate was a slight letdown as the texture seemed a bit thin, although it certainly could have been the heavyweight monsters that book-ended it. No matter, I was certainly happy to just smell all evening and enjoy.

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• 1992 Domaine Ramonet Montrachet

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

  Wow. This was a serious glass of wine. Hinted towards Ramonet but never brought the "mint" that would have led me there if served blind. But, what it lacked in mint, it had everything else in spades. Ridiculous density to the mid-palate, with a moutfeel that rivals the greatest whites I've had. Absolutely packed with fruit and minerals, and dripping with breed and class. After 4 hours in the glass, it only continued to get better and better. Generally a wine of this caliber demands attention, and while it certainly did, it was also very drinkable and just flat out delicious! Dare I say a perfect wine? Yup.

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• 1988 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  1988 Raveneau Clos - Ok, those who know me know I have a soft spot for Raveneau. This wine reaffirmed that love affair. With all the flash and style on display in this flight of legends, this wine chose to tell its story through elegance, complexity, and refinement. Served with a perfectly cooked lobster, the pleasure this brought was immeasurable. I generally never get whimsical with TN's, but drinking this wine was truly an emotional experience for me that I find very difficult to put into words. Stunning and ultimately my WOTN and the groups overall 2nd favorite.

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• 1985 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands-Echezeaux

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru

  Having had this wine a few years back and being slightly disappointed, I was hesitant to revisit. Many I know have never found the 85 DRC line-up to have lived up to its hype. After having a few myself, I think I'm in this camp as well. There was certainly nothing wrong with this wine. It had great purity, delicious red fruit, very soft and resolved mouthfeel and a fairly high-toned nosed, it just didn't smell like DRC. It lacked the spice, the stemmy quality, the intensity, the goods. Everyone certainly found it quite good but it lacked that extra element to make it fantastic. More time? Who knows...

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• 1988 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru

  Very big, very red, very Rousseau! Started out a bruiser but slowly shifted into one of the most appealing and intriguing noses of the evening. Gorgeous fruit on the nose with a very distinct "red gummy bear" note had me cracking up all evening. This reminded me a lot of older Roumier, as it was all about purity and high-toned very red, very luscious fruit. There were subtle hints of spices and other complexities going on, but this was all about the fruit and piercing nose that went straight from the glass to the upper registers of your brain. Drink if you're not afraid of fruit or hold. A sick wine.

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• 1961 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru

  The ullage on this bottle was suspect, so hopes weren't overly high, but how can you not get excited at drinking a '61 Tache?!. The color showed it's age, as did the nose. A few compelling qualities but for the most part it was on the backside of the hill. Still had weight and a great mouthfeel but the fruit was fairly dusty and tired. I was reluctant to hit the flawed key as this was still a memorable wine to try even if it didn't fire on all cylinders.

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• 1959 Maison Leroy Richebourg

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru

  The owner of this bottle brought it in directly from the Domaine in 1971 and stored it perfectly ever since. Which would explain the amazing youthfulness and color! Easily the most seamless and texturally pleasing wine of the night, with every sip drenching your palate in silk. A bit of cola, forest floor and a touch of iron intermingled perfectly with the silky red fruits. Perfect balance and integration. A testament to Lilou, and perfect storage, both of which made this truly a textbook wine. I could see this wine easily going another 20 years with bottles are stored this well.

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• 1959 Château Haut-Brion

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  If someone told me blind that this wine was '89 Haut Brion I don't know that I would have argued given the color and density. Still very dark, almost brooding color with slight bricking. Screamed Graves the second I took a sniff and only got better from there. Impressive weight to the palate with just enough acid to offer lift and balance the old fruit sweetness. Loads of chicory, tobacco and sweet black fruit. Must have been a real beast in its youth. A legend that lived up to its lofty reputation.

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• 1961 Château Lascombes

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  Probably the most surprising wine of the night. The nose was explosive and exploring from the glass from a foot away. Very classic left bank aromas as well as very distinct red and black licorice aromas. Surprisingly almost pinot-like on the palate with ample acidity and red fruit, but as the finish builds it takes you straight to Bordeaux. This wine showed its best for the first hour it was poured and then gently tapered off and began to crack up as the finish went a bit angular and the fruit turned rusty. Good not great.

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• 1982 Château L'Evangile

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  I thought initially this would be out of place but it wound up being a perfect bookend for our final flight, especially when the steaks hit the table. A sexy wine full of luscious black fruit, minerals and spice-cake on the nose. A powerful wine but so seductive. Showed exactly what a sexpot great Pomerol can be. Enjoy now or hold with confidence.

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Looking forward to out next event!