Fine+Rare Wine London
Tasted Thursday, October 29, 2015 by PanosKakaviatos with 827 views
You can read more about this tasting with pics and a video at http://www.wine-chronicles.com/blog/33-clos-vougeots-from-2013/, but suffice to say that Clos Vougeot evokes both legends and minefields.
A jewel of Burgundy, with such illustrious history. Yet with so many owners, a very good example of a wine minefield. When it was a single vineyard, many historians believe that the wine was made from grapes across its slope.
Clearly, its 50 hectares vary in terroir quality and while many agrees that the mid to upper slope merits grand cru status, the rest is more like premier cru - and that the accent in all respects should be placed on winemaking. As wine writer Jasper Morris experienced in 2007, when he tasted over 20 Vougeot wines, “the skill of the winemaker seemed to have much more impact than where the parcel of vines was located.”
So, yes, Clos Vougeot remains a minefield of varying quality – and it comes down to producers. Especially in a challenging vintage like 2013, which both Bud Cuchet of Fine+Rare and Neal Martin, critic for Robert Parker, said is not as successful as the challenging 2007 vintage.
Indeed, look up any vintage report on 2013 and you can see how difficult the harvest was.
In any case, a single blind tasting in late 2015 of very young wines does not reveal any "universal truth". At least it lends insight.
Although Clos Vougeot has some 80 producers, being able to taste over 30 of them in one day was really cool.
Some properties surprised me, others not so much and a few were disappointing – based on this tasting.
Thanks so much to Bud Cuchet for the invitation to taste.
Readers should understand that I have never tasted so many Clos Vougeots from a single vintage, so it was a new experience for me to compare. Perhaps some of the more closed wines just need more time to shine.
2013 Maison Bertrand Ambroise Clos Vougeot 87 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Fresh and aromatic, with crunchy red fruit. Is it just a touch green? Not so substantial on the palate, even if charming enough. I was rather surprised to read from Jasper Morris that this property tends towards “dark-coloured, powerful wines from fully ripe grapes balanced by plenty of oak” because in this case “fully ripe” did not come to mind. Comes across as a pleasant drink, but one expects more from grand cru.
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2013 Olivier Bernstein Clos Vougeot 88 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Somewhat darker hue than the preceding wine, exhibiting a deeper sense of ripe fruit. A bit more oak aspect on it, and just slightly drying on the finish. But more volume on mid palate, more structure, too. Nice job from a domain I had never heard of. Indeed, a recent “mini-negociant” according to Morris. Good job for a challenging vintage, even if I did not get a "grand" aspect from a grand cru appellation, either.
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2013 Henri Boillot Clos Vougeot 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Floral aromatics, spice. A firmness on the palate. Certain austerity, but ripe tannin and a long finish. Needs time to come together. Here a case of not being surprised when I found out who the producer was. I met Boillot some five years ago. He is a very careful winemaker who seeks the highest quality. Excellent quality here, too and a wine that does reflect grand cru terroir.
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2013 Bouchard Père et Fils Clos Vougeot 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Cranberry aspect, crackling red fruit aromatics and on the palate. This has verve and energy, too. You want to keep drinking it, as it has warmth and fruit. Bouchard is getting better and better with reds – and here another example. Philippe Prost is as talented a winemaker as he is a really nice person. And the estate owns plots both at the top and the bottom of the Clos Vougeot slope…
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2013 Chanson Père & Fils Clos Vougeot 86 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
A more closed in nose coming after the Bouchard. Steely. A bit austere. Revisited about 30 minutes later, and remained charmless. Here a disappointing showing from a solid negociant/producer. Not sure what happened, but let us not be too harsh in scores. Who knows? Maybe it will come around. I hope so.
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