This has a pretty interesting nose, with a distinctive floral and white grape juice aromas. The same is on the palate, with a bit of sappy sweetness from the white grape. The bead is quite coarse, but there's some nice chalky minerality here all the same. More interesting than good...
Disgorged 2008. The nose is a bit cheesy and funky, and there's just a slight bit of tart fruit as well. The palate is quite dense and rich, with tons of acidity. It's not fruity, this is purely acid-driven. I haven't had the regular bottling in a long time, but from what I remember, I do still prefer the regular -- it tends to be a little less umami and shows a little touch of sweetness as well.
A fairly typical rose champagne. Good crispness and a nice touch of tart red fruit here. The palate shows a touch of bitter almond and quite a bit of acidity. Not too complex, but fairly drinkable all the same.
Lafarge always does it for me. Love it. The nose on this is just brilliant -- so much crisp red fruit. It's light and gorgeous. The palate shows very much the same character -- simultaneously juicy and tart red fruits. The tannins here are a touch coarse (believe it or not, I've found the 2008 silkier and more easy-going). Plenty of bright acidity here; this is proper Burgundy. As an addendum, I know the story is that Lafarge wines need to be aged a long time, but this is already immediately accessible and delicious.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
A very large-scaled chardonnay. Shows quite austere, with some fat fruit, but the story of the day here is oak, which is a little bit more astringent than I prefer. Good density and power, but all overshadowed by the oak.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
This is fantastic young chardonnay. Light touch of reduction on the nose. Soft fruit on the nose and palate as well, with incredible racy minerality. There's a light touch of green herbs and a very light touch of oak here. Spectacular stuff already.
For a Rhone white, this is actually fairly convincing. The nose shows a light bit of reduction, as well as perfumed florals and peachy white fruit. The palate is quite dense, with many of the same characteristics as the nose. Waxy, but with redeeming acidity, this isn't oily or thick at all.
Stanky in the way Leroy always is. The palate is a bit austere, earthy, and loaded with acid as the 2001 vintage is wont to be. Quite tart and perhaps a little bit more advanced than it ought to be.
A really brilliant riesling, from the heyday of the estate. Fresh green herbs, tart, and absolutely lively. Touch of honey as well. This is absolutely classic Kabinett -- it's really hard to ask for more from a wine like this. Love the tart pineapple on this.
Ok, this is actually pretty incredible. The nose is simply brilliant. It's almost a volatilized young riesling nose, with plenty of sweet white fruit and florals. The palate shows lots of the same, but it's not as thick or rich as the nose would imply.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
The nose shows a fair bit of earth of tart red fruit, but the palate shows a little bit more oak than the material in here can endure. Nice acidity all the same; but a bit simple for a grand cru.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
Grand cru, all day, every day. From magnum, naturally. Very lovely dose of earth on the nose. Nice acidity, this is very approachable and drinkable, if a touch simple. Very earth-driven on the palate as well -- the acidity does dominate the fruit a little bit in this case.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Austere, dark, and very, very tight. Tons of acidity -- this is almost Baroloesque. Dense and rich, but there's still a very nice touch of red fruit. The palate is quite tannic -- this needs much more time (or air) to resolve itself.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
I've always heard stories about Jadot 1997s, and I'm glad to say that this lives up to the hype. While many are already decaying and falling apart with their overripe fruit, this is in tip-top shape. Touch of Burgundian earth, with lovely sweet plums. The tannins aren't too heavy, and while this is approachable now, this is in no risk of decline.
My understanding is that this was the first ever California Parker 100. I have a serious hard time thinking that Parker would give this anything remotely close to that score anymore. The nose is profoundly herbal (and the palate too). Not heavy on the palate, this has plenty of lovely cabernet character. Softer tannins, and very good density. Earthy, but a nice touch of fruit as well. Brilliant, but perfect?
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
The nose on this is quite brilliant, with some lovely tart red fruit on the nose. Lighter on the palate, with lots of the same tart red fruit character. Not too dense or heavy, but very nice acidity and freshness. Touch of earth as well.
Armand's Epeneaux has always been one of my favourite Burgundies, and this bottle is no exception. The nose has some classic Burgundian stank, with some animale and barnyard. Rustic in the best sense of the word. The tannic structure is obviously pretty heavy still (Bordelais?), but this is as classic as it comes.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
A little barnyardy, animale, and funky, but in a very nice sense of the word, at least on the nose. The palate shows a little more barnyardy as well, with lots of ripeness. Quite sweet. Rich and sappy.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Thin, and basically, too acidic. This isn't showing too much on the palate, and mostly it's a mouthful of red-fruited acidity. Tastes a little watery. A miss from the estate.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
I've heard stories of the brilliance of 2010 Hudelot, and this bottle lives up to the hype for sure. The nose shows more concentrated red fruit, with some amazing freshness. There is a little bit of oak on the palate, but there's lovely concentration here. The fruit is intense and just delicious. Give this time.
Dense black fruit on the nose, with just enough graphite and black plums to make this really, really compelling. The palate is very dark, but fairly open for business. There is lovely density and power here. Ripe and powerful, and restrained at the same time.
Very nice, at the very least, as a change of pace, given that we've been drinking Burgundy all day. The nose on this shows lovely meatiness with crisp black berries. Very juicy with lots of meatiness. Quite fruity, and I do like the black fruit balanced with the spice and earth.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Very lovely red-fruited Gevrey. This bottle gives me hope that my fears about 2008 have been slightly overblown, especially after a slightly dessicated Rousseau Charmes that I had a few years ago. The nose on this shows classic crispy red fruits -- very light and pretty. Lots of tart fruit on the palate as well. This is incredibly classic as far as 2008 comes; quite ethereal really, but a bit more concentration would be in order.
NV Feudi di San Gregorio Dubl 85 Points
Italy, Campania, Campania IGT
This has a pretty interesting nose, with a distinctive floral and white grape juice aromas. The same is on the palate, with a bit of sappy sweetness from the white grape. The bead is quite coarse, but there's some nice chalky minerality here all the same. More interesting than good...
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1996 Dom Pérignon Champagne Oenothèque 93 Points
France, Champagne
Disgorged 2008. The nose is a bit cheesy and funky, and there's just a slight bit of tart fruit as well. The palate is quite dense and rich, with tons of acidity. It's not fruity, this is purely acid-driven. I haven't had the regular bottling in a long time, but from what I remember, I do still prefer the regular -- it tends to be a little less umami and shows a little touch of sweetness as well.
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2010 Maison Leroy Bourgogne Blanc 80 Points
France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc
Thick and waxy, with no redeeming acidity. Slightly reductive. Watery on the palate. Hilariously bad. Pointless.
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NV Nominé Renard Champagne Brut Rosé 88 Points
France, Champagne
A fairly typical rose champagne. Good crispness and a nice touch of tart red fruit here. The palate shows a touch of bitter almond and quite a bit of acidity. Not too complex, but fairly drinkable all the same.
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2007 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Château des Ducs 95 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Lafarge always does it for me. Love it. The nose on this is just brilliant -- so much crisp red fruit. It's light and gorgeous. The palate shows very much the same character -- simultaneously juicy and tart red fruits. The tannins here are a touch coarse (believe it or not, I've found the 2008 silkier and more easy-going). Plenty of bright acidity here; this is proper Burgundy. As an addendum, I know the story is that Lafarge wines need to be aged a long time, but this is already immediately accessible and delicious.
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2004 Bouchard Père et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
A very large-scaled chardonnay. Shows quite austere, with some fat fruit, but the story of the day here is oak, which is a little bit more astringent than I prefer. Good density and power, but all overshadowed by the oak.
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2013 Domaine Ramonet Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet 95 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
This is fantastic young chardonnay. Light touch of reduction on the nose. Soft fruit on the nose and palate as well, with incredible racy minerality. There's a light touch of green herbs and a very light touch of oak here. Spectacular stuff already.
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2011 Mathilde et Yves Gangloff St. Joseph Blanc 88 Points
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
For a Rhone white, this is actually fairly convincing. The nose shows a light bit of reduction, as well as perfumed florals and peachy white fruit. The palate is quite dense, with many of the same characteristics as the nose. Waxy, but with redeeming acidity, this isn't oily or thick at all.
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2001 Maison Leroy Volnay 88 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay
Stanky in the way Leroy always is. The palate is a bit austere, earthy, and loaded with acid as the 2001 vintage is wont to be. Quite tart and perhaps a little bit more advanced than it ought to be.
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1994 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 95 Points
Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
A really brilliant riesling, from the heyday of the estate. Fresh green herbs, tart, and absolutely lively. Touch of honey as well. This is absolutely classic Kabinett -- it's really hard to ask for more from a wine like this. Love the tart pineapple on this.
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2013 Domaine Georges Vernay Condrieu Les Chaillées de l'Enfer 90 Points
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu
Ok, this is actually pretty incredible. The nose is simply brilliant. It's almost a volatilized young riesling nose, with plenty of sweet white fruit and florals. The palate shows lots of the same, but it's not as thick or rich as the nose would imply.
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2002 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Echezeaux 85 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
The nose shows a fair bit of earth of tart red fruit, but the palate shows a little bit more oak than the material in here can endure. Nice acidity all the same; but a bit simple for a grand cru.
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2000 Frederic Esmonin Mazy-Chambertin 88 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
Grand cru, all day, every day. From magnum, naturally. Very lovely dose of earth on the nose. Nice acidity, this is very approachable and drinkable, if a touch simple. Very earth-driven on the palate as well -- the acidity does dominate the fruit a little bit in this case.
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2001 Domaine Jean Grivot Echezeaux 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Austere, dark, and very, very tight. Tons of acidity -- this is almost Baroloesque. Dense and rich, but there's still a very nice touch of red fruit. The palate is quite tannic -- this needs much more time (or air) to resolve itself.
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1997 Louis Jadot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
I've always heard stories about Jadot 1997s, and I'm glad to say that this lives up to the hype. While many are already decaying and falling apart with their overripe fruit, this is in tip-top shape. Touch of Burgundian earth, with lovely sweet plums. The tannins aren't too heavy, and while this is approachable now, this is in no risk of decline.
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1985 Groth Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 93 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
My understanding is that this was the first ever California Parker 100. I have a serious hard time thinking that Parker would give this anything remotely close to that score anymore. The nose is profoundly herbal (and the palate too). Not heavy on the palate, this has plenty of lovely cabernet character. Softer tannins, and very good density. Earthy, but a nice touch of fruit as well. Brilliant, but perfect?
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2001 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Clos Vougeot 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
The nose on this is quite brilliant, with some lovely tart red fruit on the nose. Lighter on the palate, with lots of the same tart red fruit character. Not too dense or heavy, but very nice acidity and freshness. Touch of earth as well.
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1998 Comte Armand Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
Armand's Epeneaux has always been one of my favourite Burgundies, and this bottle is no exception. The nose has some classic Burgundian stank, with some animale and barnyard. Rustic in the best sense of the word. The tannic structure is obviously pretty heavy still (Bordelais?), but this is as classic as it comes.
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1985 Louis Jadot Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Boudots Domaine Gagey 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
A little barnyardy, animale, and funky, but in a very nice sense of the word, at least on the nose. The palate shows a little more barnyardy as well, with lots of ripeness. Quite sweet. Rich and sappy.
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2001 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaumonts 85 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Thin, and basically, too acidic. This isn't showing too much on the palate, and mostly it's a mouthful of red-fruited acidity. Tastes a little watery. A miss from the estate.
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2010 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Clos Vougeot 95 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
I've heard stories of the brilliance of 2010 Hudelot, and this bottle lives up to the hype for sure. The nose shows more concentrated red fruit, with some amazing freshness. There is a little bit of oak on the palate, but there's lovely concentration here. The fruit is intense and just delicious. Give this time.
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2000 Château Pontet-Canet 93 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Dense black fruit on the nose, with just enough graphite and black plums to make this really, really compelling. The palate is very dark, but fairly open for business. There is lovely density and power here. Ripe and powerful, and restrained at the same time.
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2014 Domaine Georges Vernay St. Joseph Terres d'Encre 90 Points
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
Very nice, at the very least, as a change of pace, given that we've been drinking Burgundy all day. The nose on this shows lovely meatiness with crisp black berries. Very juicy with lots of meatiness. Quite fruity, and I do like the black fruit balanced with the spice and earth.
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2008 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Very lovely red-fruited Gevrey. This bottle gives me hope that my fears about 2008 have been slightly overblown, especially after a slightly dessicated Rousseau Charmes that I had a few years ago. The nose on this shows classic crispy red fruits -- very light and pretty. Lots of tart fruit on the palate as well. This is incredibly classic as far as 2008 comes; quite ethereal really, but a bit more concentration would be in order.
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