Burghound Symposium Asia - Clos Saint- Denis vs. Clos de la Roche dinner

Hong Kong
Tasted Saturday, April 21, 2018 by Collector1855 with 523 views

Introduction

This dinner was part of the 2018 Burghound Symposium curated by Alan “Burghound” Meadows staged by the Hong Kong fine wine merchant “The Fine Wine Experience”. Alan took us through in an impressive level of detail and insight on the intricacies of these two great Morey Saint-Denis Grand Grus. Both are - and showed - on an impressive level, I like both but personally have a small preference for the lighter, cooler CSD site, having said that, I have given high scores to both terroirs. On the producers, the following may be noteworthy
- Jadot: Very solid performance, great wine, structured, balanced. Decent QPR
- Hubert Lignier: Fantastic showing of the CDR. The powerful style showed very complex and refined with age
- Ponsot: Hit or miss due to the very ripe style which is prone to oxidation. Also, lots of corked bottles
- Dujac: Lots of whole cluster. I don’t like their wines young, but boy, did they do well in this tasting of mature samples, especially the CSD was outer worldly and the CDR at similar heights, albeit a touch riper style
- Armand Rousseau: Not as good as the others, The vines apparently were young back then and the stable did not yet pay the same level of attention to this site as they do today. Probably better to avoid samples before 2010 as they are just as expensive and not as good yet as they are today, apparently the same is true for the Ruchottes

Flight 1 (13 Notes)

  • 2002 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Clos de la Roche 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

    Fine nose of game and stems. Light body, pleasant but lacks a bit of stuffing for a higher note. Good but not great.

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  • 2002 Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche Cuvée Auguste 99 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

    I had this wine the last time six years a go and I remember it to be stunning so I was very curious if that performance can be repeated. It did. Starts with a wow nose. Deep, dark blue fruit, barnyard, rose petals, medicinal notes as well. The palate is big but it stays refined. Very aromatic with a long finish. One of the top wines of this high end dinner.

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  • 2002 Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

    Meaty nose, some oxidative tones, spices and sweets. Ripe palate, tart, rich. A bit over the top. Nowhere nearly as good as the divine 1989 that followed later

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  • 2002 Domaine Dujac Clos St. Denis 100 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos St. Denis Grand Cru

    Elegant nose, deep, spicy, game, mint. OMG, what a wine on the palate. Finest whole cluster scents, refined tannins buffering the sucrosité of this sunny vintage. Elegant, complex, stunning. WOTN! To be noted that the 1989 was also in the same league. Fabulous!

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  • 2002 Domaine Ponsot Clos St. Denis Vieilles Vignes 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos St. Denis Grand Cru

    Oxidative nose, Maggy, meh! Luckily the palate was much better, the oxidation was much less present but a candy note points to very late picking. No so much my style. Luckily there is enough acidity, so drinkability is good.

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  • 1997 Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche 96 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

    Dark color, red and dark fruit, sweet spices, complex. Soft and fruity palate, pleasant, could need a bit more structure but the aromatic complexity is really great here. Very good, but outshined by the amazing 2002.

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  • 1993 Louis Jadot Clos St. Denis 96 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos St. Denis Grand Cru

    Nose of game, dark and red fruit, really nice. A bit more dense and restraint on the palate, the house style here is really made for aging. Impressive and can further develop from here despite the 25 years of age.

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  • 1993 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Clos de la Roche 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

    Pretty nose, spices. Palate leaner than the other samples. Like the 2002 this could benefit from some more stuffing.

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  • 1990 Domaine Ponsot Clos St. Denis Vieilles Vignes 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos St. Denis Grand Cru

    Nose of ripe, red fruit, gingerbread, toffee. Lots of sun on the palate here as well, caressing, generous but with enough structure. Very good but outshined by the CDR.

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  • 1990 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

    Ripe but also delineated and complex nose, herbs. Wonderful palate, ripe, good structure, medicinal finish. Not a Ponsot fan but both 1990 Ponsot really showed well unlike the 2002.

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  • 1989 Domaine Dujac Clos St. Denis 99 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos St. Denis Grand Cru

    Another whole cluster, gamey, red fruit nose to die for. Elegant, spicy palate, discrete punchy tannins providing structure. Another Wow wine competing with the 2002 for WOTN. Dujac's CSD really cleaned the slate at this high end tasting and was by many the preferred wine at the table.

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  • 1989 Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche 98 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

    Dujac's 1989 rocked. After the stunning CSD came this wonderful wine. A touch riper, more generous but almost as complex with whole cluster nose, musk, red fruit. What a performance! Anyone who has bought this duo back in the days for a song must be so happy today.

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  • 1989 Domaine Leroy Clos de la Roche 96 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

    Discrete nose, toffee, red and dark fruit, earth. Powerful but refined palate. This felt even a bit wild and young. Very good but today upstaged by Dujac’s outer-worldly 1989 CDR/CSD duo. 96+

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