Domaine de Chevalier vertical with Olivier Bernard

Panos organized another classified growth vertical dinner. This time it was three vintages of the white and ten vintages with Olivier Bernard. Olivier is a true bon vivant, one of the most generous people of Bordeaux. About fifteen years ago, Olivier hosted a dinner at Domaine de Chevalier and opened a jeroboam which he believed to be 1870’s Chateau Margaux. As Panos explained, Domaine de Chevalier is situated in cool climate. The reds displayed strong mineral and were quite fresh. Domaine de Chevalier produces classic grave that will specially please AFWEs.

The dinner was held at Le Café Descartes at the French Embassy. The chef prepared a nice tasting menu to complement the wines. the wine service was very good.

They were all solid.

• 2014 Domaine de la Solitude Blanc 89 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Medium expressive nose displaying gooseberry, kiwi, apple, lemon, cat pee, lanoline, stinky sox and crushed rocks. Very good concentration, slightly sour white fruit, rich yet cool, mouth puckering acidity, strong mineral and a medium to long sour white fruit driven finish. This will go well with oyster.

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• 2014 L'Esprit de Chevalier Blanc 89 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Medium expressive nose displaying candied lemon zest, lemon, spicy spices, honey and wet stone. Good concentration, candied citrus, mouth puckering acidity, strong mineral and a medium long candied citrus fruit driven finish. Solid but nothing really remarkable.

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• 2014 Clos des Lunes Lune d'Argent 89 Points

  France, Bordeaux

  Medium expressive nose displaying ripe yellow fruit, kiwi, passionfruit, gooseberry, a hint of jalapeno, lanoline and wet stone. Very good concentration, packed ripe yellow fruit, rich yet cool and clean, a hint of sugar, good acidity and mineral, and a medium to long kiwi and gooseberry driven finish with a hint of sugar at the end. Richest wine of the flight.

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I liked the 00 but found the 80 and 90 to be not too expressive.

• 2000 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Expressive nose displaying rich yellow fruit, kiwi, lemon curd, crème brulee, a hint of green, honey and limestone. Excellent concentration, nicely layered concentrated sweet yellow fruit, rich and sweet yet harmonious and nicely detailed, medium acidity, good mineral presence and a long rich yellow fruit driven finish with lanoline and light caramel at the end. Someone thought this was too young, which makes no sense to me but…. This is drinking perfectly, still showing generous rich fruit but also complexity via lanoline and honey.

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• 1990 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Fully mature nose with subdued fruit expression, lemon curd, strangely licorice, burnt sugar, lanoline and limestone. Very good concentration, medium acidity and mineral and a medium long lemon crud riven finish with a hint of burnt sugar at the end. The fruit is subdued and the expression is a bit too straightforward.

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• 1980 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Strong jalapeno and bell pepper, also spicy spices and slightly oxidized apple. I wish for a bit more fruit and richness. Interesting but not intriguing.

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The 16 was my WOTN. The 10 had subdued fruit.

• 2016 Domaine de Chevalier 96 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Expressive energetic nose displaying intense yet pure and cool black fruit, crème de cassis, blueberry pie, crushed blueberry, grape concentrate, smoke, lead pencil, sap, cedar/toasted oak and crushed rocks. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of intense black fruit, unctuous yet silky and fluid, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a long intense cassis driven finish with smoke and mineral at the end. For me, the best wine of the evening.

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• 2014 Domaine de Chevalier 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Medium expressive nose displaying pure black fruit with a hint of red, blackberry, crème de cassis, a hint of strawberry, licorice, mocha, roasted nuts, cedar and limestone. Very good concentration, nicely layered pure black fruit, fresh and silky, medium acidity, strong mineral, nicely integrated tannins and a medium long black and red fruit driven finish. There is a hint of bitterness that clips the finish. This is a classic Grave. For me, the 16 Junior, i.e. very similar in style but not as expressive and concentrated.

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• 2010 Domaine de Chevalier 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Medium expressive nose displaying coiled black fruit, a hint of cassis and blueberry, also ash, tobacco, cedar and earth. Very good concentration, finely layered slightly closed black fruit, silky and polished, good acidity and strong limestone mineral, noticeable fine tannins and a medium to long cool black fruit driven finish with ash and cedar at the end. The fruit is subdued, accentuating the mineral expression.

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The 01 was drinking incredibly well.

• 2006 Domaine de Chevalier 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Medium expressive nose displaying ripe red fruit, plum strawberry, with a hint of crème de cassis, also leather, tobacco, mocha, cedar, lead pencil and strong limestone mineral. Excellent concentration, packed concentrated ripe red fruit, a bit chunky and unctuous, bright acidity, strong mineral and a medium to long concentrated ripe red fruit driven finish with a hint of cedar at the end. Starting to show maturity. This nicely expresses the 06 vintage character, concentrated but a bit clumsy and chunky. Perhaps another five years to reach the youthful peak.

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• 2005 Domaine de Chevalier 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Medium expressive nose with slightly coiled red fruit, cherry and strawberry, also a hint of crème de cassis, licorice, caramel, lead pencil, mocha, ash and crushed rock. Very good concentration, finely layered coiled concentrated red fruit, silky and fluid, medium acidity, strong mineral, slightly coarse tannins and a medium to long red fruit driven finish with cedar and ash at the end. The fruit is a bit coiled, giving a lean impression. Considering the vintage, a bit disappointing. Hopefully it will open up in a few years.

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• 2004 Domaine de Chevalier 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Medium expressive nose displaying shy red fruit, plum, a hint of cassis, ash, lead pencil and earth. Medium concentration, shy red fruit, lean and cool, good acidity, earthy mineral, a hint of coarse tannins and a medium long subtle red fruit driven finish. Perhaps the least appealing wine of the night.

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• 2001 Domaine de Chevalier 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Perfectly mature nose displaying generous black and red fruit, a hint of crème de cassis, strawberry, plum, light caramel, cedar, leather, tobacco and earth. Beautifully integrated palate, nicely layered perfectly ripe black and red fruit, rich and silky, perfect amount of acidity, medium mineral, fully integrated tannins and a long perfectly ripe black and red fruit driven finish with a hint of cedar and caramel at the end. This clearly expresses the 01 vintage, i.e. beautiful user friendly nose and excellent balance. Drinking beautifully.

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The 70 was drinking nicely.

• 2000 Domaine de Chevalier 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Medium expressive nose displaying subtle red fruit, strawberry, cherry and plum, noticeable green, cedar, a hint of dirty damp cellar and limestone. Medium concentration, subtle red fruit, slightly lean, good acidity and mineral, a hint of coarse tannins and a short to medium finish. A bit disappointing for the vintage.

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• 1990 Domaine de Chevalier 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Youthful medium expressive nose displaying shy ripe black and red fruit, strawberry jam, crème de cassis, leather, tobacco, caramel and earth. Nicely integrated palate, concentrated black and red fruit, rich and silky, bright acidity, earthy mineral, nicely integrated tannins and a medium to long ripe black and red fruit driven finish with tobacco and leather at the end. It lacks the expressive hedonistic ripe fruit of the 90 vintage.

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• 1970 Domaine de Chevalier 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Clear faded red with bricking on the rim. Fully mature nose displaying sweet watery red fruit, raspberry, cherry and plum, cedar, strong eucalyptus, a hint of ash and mineral. Completely resolved palate, subtle clear red fruit, silky and fluid, medium acidity, fully resolved tannins and a medium to long subtle red fruit driven finish. This is a classic fully mature Grave.

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• 2000 Château Guiraud 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Much lighter than the 90. Expressive nose displaying ripe yellow fruit, peach, peach cobbler, apricot tart, honey, tea and sweet spices. Very good concentration, nicely layered ripe yellow fruit, deeply toned and rich, medium acidity and a medium long sweet yellow fruit driven finish. In line with the vintage and the house style.

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• 1990 Château Guiraud 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Fully mature nose displaying slightly dry yellow fruit, peach preserves, orange marmalade, candied ginger, black tea, sweet spices and earth. Very good concentration, packed slightly dry yellow fruit, deeply toned and dense, medium acidity and a medium to long ripe yellow fruit driven finish.

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