Harry's Steak
Tasted Wednesday, February 20, 2008 by Keith Levenberg with 1,086 views
Buttery smooth texture, with the tannins fully resolved. One of the best drinking vintages today. This almost gives a little nod to Latour with its earthy, rusty iron notes.
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Very nice aroma, sweet cocoa with a meaty funk - one of the most interesting wines in the lineup to sniff. On the palate, much more difficult. It is extremely structured with the material between the walls a bit sparse - almost watery, even - and marred by an odd tomato flavor. Maybe it will turn out pleasant one day, but it seems just as likely to completely hollow out.
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Soft, airy aroma. Shows a lot of tobacco and rusty character - also a whiff of band-aid, too, unfortunately. And it's still a very tannic wine, smoothing out a little with air but finishing very dry.
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Nice scent, and nearly as resolved in texture as the '78 - this is smooth and ready to go, slender and elegant in its proportions.
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Oak slut. Spackled with barrel char from top to bottom, and so richly fruited that the structure feels like it ain't there. Pichon-Lalande? Say it ain't so!
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Way more tannic than the '01, in fact almost abrasive on the finish. Hm - pouring them in the same glass might make a complete wine....
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Classic cedary nose. This is still tannic, especially next to the more fruit-forward '96, but it has the balance and classic restraint I love about the '95 vintage. Except for science, I would keep cellaring this.
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Scents of sweet cocoa. The fruit here is dark and rich, almost meaty, far inkier in mouthfeel than the more restrained '95, and buries whatever tannin remains. But as sweet and rich as it is it is also a little bitter. A very different personality from the '95.
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Powerfully aromatic. Still a huge wine, this has neither slimmed down nor closed up since its release and is rich, dense, black-fruited, and plastered with the characteristic cedar and graphite of Pauillac in general and this chateau in particular. But the weight and density isn't flabby because there is a tension to the wine with the richness on one side and an almost tart juiciness on the other. This is the most exciting Bordeaux I've had in a long while.
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Interesting how different this feels in a vertical lineup versus the whole bottle I had. Next to the other wines, the oakiness of this wine is really obvious. Smells like nuts and barrel toast. Similar in style to the '01.
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I think I have to reluctantly admit the lukewarm reviews from the critics called it right. This is a perfectly good claret - elegant, streamlined, red-fruited, etc. - but taste it next to the 2000 and it feels emaciated.
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2004 Château de la Maltroye Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos du Château de la Maltroye 85 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Pungently aromatic, with the palate somewhat in tension between crispness and oakiness. There's good acidity and tropical fruit, but the wood gives it a darker complexion and a thicker, oily mouthfeel.
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2002 David Arthur Chardonnay Reserve 52 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley, Rutherford
Smells like a cross between Madeira and synthetic microwave-popcorn butter. Woof.
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