Disgorged February 2019. Mildly oxidative, white nuts, nutmeg, rich and vinous but dry and minerally, tart citrus, layered flavours, gentle bitters, very good but not mind blowing.
Tasted blind. From an specific parcel in the Siefersheimer Heerkretz, previously owned by the Emt family. Expressive Riesling character, relatively soft and ripe but fresh, hint of wax, peach, considerable weight but playful and youthful acidity, apple, excellent rather than outstanding.
Tasted blind. Clearly Nahe Riesling, tight and with relatively firm bitters, silky and ripe fruit, very compact and structured, needs a lot of time to come together, dusty and minerally, powerful and long. Great potential, long life.
Tasted blind. Rich style, not very easy to determinate, seems to have a bit of residual sugar, lemon verbena, minerality, perhaps slightly uneven on the finish. Not a perfect bottle? Certainly not as good as the 2018. Not rated.
Tasted blind. Rather monolithic, young, playful acidity, hint of wax, concentrated and powerful but closed on the chalky nose, manages to be both linear and glossy, very convincing finish. Will need many years to re-emerge from its slumber. Score based on potential.
Tasted blind. Amazing wine. Marvellous nose, reduction, flint, power and precision, great intensity and drive, punches way above its level. Almost Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru quality – however without the authority and complexity on the palate.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Tasted blind. Decanted. Power and energy, not easy to assess, there seems to be a lack of balance between the firm and youthful structure and the considerable aromatic evolution. If it comes together, it’s a 94-95 point wine, if it doesn’t…. Not rated.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Tasted blind. Elegance and gentle evolution, fully mature and perfectly fresh, white pepper, traditional style, honeyed and rounded, power and weight balanced by firm acidity, real drive and length.
Tasted blind. Lovely definition, great minerally precision, playful, elegant and refined, but with a certain lack of structure and energy, soft and easy, and not readily recognisable as Raveneau - which is a rare occurence.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Tasted blind. No. 00017. Great, classical Coche Corton-Charlemagne nose, immediately recognisable, the palate is so playful and layered, an effortless interplay of power and finesse, amazing finesse, complete and conplex, layered, perfect oak integration, firm but playful acidity, salty finish with great resonance and length. A very great wine, completely different from the concentrated and brooding 2012 tasted last year.
Tasted blind. Apparently there are different cuvées chez Coche all sold as Meursault village. According to Steven D’Hoye, the owner of restaurant d'Oude Schuur, this particular bottle is from Vireuils Dessus. Subtle oak and playful fruit on the nose, light but firm structure, slightly resinous oak on the palate, needs a few years. Very elegant.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
Tasted blind. One large barrel, rare stuff. Intensity and power, luxurious nose, chiselled but lacks a bit of authority on the palate for a PYCM Chevalier-Montrachet.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
Tasted blind. Bottle No. 00218 from 914 bottles produced. Immense power and concentration, honey and spices, huge dimensions, starting to show its age, atypical, smoky oak, imposing, bombastic, monolithic, length is not great. Impressive but not delicious. Personally I don’t like it, to be perfectly honest.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Tasted blind. Cool and mineral, bright and jewelly character, light and elegant, real finesse and elegance, great terroir expression, very good persistence, oak needs a little more time to integrate.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Tasted blind. Hint of the stalks, ripe black fruit and lavish but well judged oak, smooth and silky, polished but not very layered or refined. I had expected more.
Tasted blind. Very pure but not really refined, sweet fruit, intense, spicy, rich, hints of chocolate and red beet. I guess this shows that the context in which you taste a wine really matters.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Tasted blind. A marvellous marriage between the richness of the vintage and the elegant, delicate house style, sich a refined interpretation of the ripe year, fragrant flowers and black fruit, hint of smoky black tea, cool minerality, so precise and layered, grand vin, attractive already but needs time.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru
Tasted blind. Bottle No. 05508 from 13,358 bottles produced. Needs a lot of time to open up in the glass. Not easily approachable at this stage, you really have to go in search of it. Great depth, Asian spices, roses and orange zest, powerful tannic structure, excellent length. A long-haul wine, with indisputable authority.
Tasted blind. Bright, off-dry, intense, vegetal bitters, wax and flowers, citrus and blackcurrant, peach, lip-licking acidity, dry finish with excellent resonance and length. Needs more time now, one extra point based on potential.
Tasted blind. Mainly Meunier with some Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, base vintage 2019, 43% reserve wines from the réserve perpetuelle (since 1998), disgorged November 2021, dosage 6 gr/l. Very energetic and tightly coiled, lots of minerally energy, lovely spicy Meunier richness.
2007 Jacques Selosse Millésimé 94 Points
France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Disgorged February 2019. Mildly oxidative, white nuts, nutmeg, rich and vinous but dry and minerally, tart citrus, layered flavours, gentle bitters, very good but not mind blowing.
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2020 Wagner-Stempel Riesling trocken EMT Auction 92 Points
Germany, Rheinhessen
Tasted blind. From an specific parcel in the Siefersheimer Heerkretz, previously owned by the Emt family. Expressive Riesling character, relatively soft and ripe but fresh, hint of wax, peach, considerable weight but playful and youthful acidity, apple, excellent rather than outstanding.
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2020 Emrich-Schönleber Auf der Ley Riesling Großes Gewächs 95 Points
Germany, Nahe
Tasted blind. Clearly Nahe Riesling, tight and with relatively firm bitters, silky and ripe fruit, very compact and structured, needs a lot of time to come together, dusty and minerally, powerful and long. Great potential, long life.
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2019 I. et S. Bernaudeau Les Nourrissons
France, Vin de France
Tasted blind. Rich style, not very easy to determinate, seems to have a bit of residual sugar, lemon verbena, minerality, perhaps slightly uneven on the finish. Not a perfect bottle? Certainly not as good as the 2018. Not rated.
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2017 Weingut Keller Abts E® Riesling Großes Gewächs 95 Points
Germany, Rheinhessen
Tasted blind. Rather monolithic, young, playful acidity, hint of wax, concentrated and powerful but closed on the chalky nose, manages to be both linear and glossy, very convincing finish. Will need many years to re-emerge from its slumber. Score based on potential.
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2001 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune
France, Alsace
Tasted blind. Very evolved, candied fruit, soft and gentle, tired bitters, orange, certainly not unpleasant but objectively past best. Not rated.
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2020 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhauser Riesling Reserve 89 Points
Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Tasted blind. Meaty nose signals reduction, dry and a bit vegetal on the palate, tough finish.
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2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin Le Banc Blanc 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin
Tasted blind. Amazing wine. Marvellous nose, reduction, flint, power and precision, great intensity and drive, punches way above its level. Almost Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru quality – however without the authority and complexity on the palate.
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2020 Kei Shiogai Bourgogne Blanc Les Pellans 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc
Tasted blind. Juicy and supple, apple and ripe citrus, hint of spice, easy, attractive but not hugely distinctive. It didn't really shine today.
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2014 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Clos des Bouchères
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Tasted blind. Decanted. Power and energy, not easy to assess, there seems to be a lack of balance between the firm and youthful structure and the considerable aromatic evolution. If it comes together, it’s a 94-95 point wine, if it doesn’t…. Not rated.
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2006 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 94 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Tasted blind. Elegance and gentle evolution, fully mature and perfectly fresh, white pepper, traditional style, honeyed and rounded, power and weight balanced by firm acidity, real drive and length.
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2013 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Tasted blind. Lovely definition, great minerally precision, playful, elegant and refined, but with a certain lack of structure and energy, soft and easy, and not readily recognisable as Raveneau - which is a rare occurence.
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2011 Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne 98 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Tasted blind. No. 00017. Great, classical Coche Corton-Charlemagne nose, immediately recognisable, the palate is so playful and layered, an effortless interplay of power and finesse, amazing finesse, complete and conplex, layered, perfect oak integration, firm but playful acidity, salty finish with great resonance and length. A very great wine, completely different from the concentrated and brooding 2012 tasted last year.
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2019 Coche-Dury Meursault 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Tasted blind. Apparently there are different cuvées chez Coche all sold as Meursault village. According to Steven D’Hoye, the owner of restaurant d'Oude Schuur, this particular bottle is from Vireuils Dessus. Subtle oak and playful fruit on the nose, light but firm structure, slightly resinous oak on the palate, needs a few years. Very elegant.
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2016 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chevalier-Montrachet 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
Tasted blind. One large barrel, rare stuff. Intensity and power, luxurious nose, chiselled but lacks a bit of authority on the palate for a PYCM Chevalier-Montrachet.
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2007 Domaine d'Auvenay (Lalou Bize-Leroy) Puligny-Montrachet en la Richarde 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
Tasted blind. Bottle No. 00218 from 914 bottles produced. Immense power and concentration, honey and spices, huge dimensions, starting to show its age, atypical, smoky oak, imposing, bombastic, monolithic, length is not great. Impressive but not delicious. Personally I don’t like it, to be perfectly honest.
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2018 Marc Pinto et Louis Mathieu Bourgogne Les Nargilets 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Bourgogne
Tasted blind. Natural style, pure and precise, light and bright, peach, roses, red berries, delicious.
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2019 Forey Père et Fils Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Gaudichots 94 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Tasted blind. Cool and mineral, bright and jewelly character, light and elegant, real finesse and elegance, great terroir expression, very good persistence, oak needs a little more time to integrate.
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2019 Cecile Tremblay Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Tasted blind. Hint of the stalks, ripe black fruit and lavish but well judged oak, smooth and silky, polished but not very layered or refined. I had expected more.
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2020 Kei Shiogai Pommard Poisot 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard
Tasted blind. Very pure but not really refined, sweet fruit, intense, spicy, rich, hints of chocolate and red beet. I guess this shows that the context in which you taste a wine really matters.
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1993 J. Confuron-Cotetidot Clos Vougeot 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Tasted blind. Old but lively, fresh, good black fruit, slightly metallic, on fine form.
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2018 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques 96 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Tasted blind. A marvellous marriage between the richness of the vintage and the elegant, delicate house style, sich a refined interpretation of the ripe year, fragrant flowers and black fruit, hint of smoky black tea, cool minerality, so precise and layered, grand vin, attractive already but needs time.
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2012 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche 97 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru
Tasted blind. Bottle No. 05508 from 13,358 bottles produced. Needs a lot of time to open up in the glass. Not easily approachable at this stage, you really have to go in search of it. Great depth, Asian spices, roses and orange zest, powerful tannic structure, excellent length. A long-haul wine, with indisputable authority.
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2008 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve 93 Points
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Tasted blind. Relatively light style, tea and honeyed strawberries, bright and fresh, sweet fruit, finely grained tannins, cool and minerally, fragrant, elegant, harmonious, very good length.
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2007 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett 93 Points
Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Tasted blind. Bright, off-dry, intense, vegetal bitters, wax and flowers, citrus and blackcurrant, peach, lip-licking acidity, dry finish with excellent resonance and length. Needs more time now, one extra point based on potential.
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2017 Domaine Fourrier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Gruenchers Vieille Vigne 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Tasted blind. Supple and juicy fruit, fresh and with mild vegetal notes.
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NV Dehours Champagne Grande Réserve Brut 91 Points
France, Champagne
Tasted blind. Mainly Meunier with some Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, base vintage 2019, 43% reserve wines from the réserve perpetuelle (since 1998), disgorged November 2021, dosage 6 gr/l. Very energetic and tightly coiled, lots of minerally energy, lovely spicy Meunier richness.
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1996 Château Guiraud 91 Points
France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Tasted blind. Oaky, honeyed, oak bitters, concentrated but with firm acidity, vestiges of tropical fruit, very good length. Solid, but little finesse.
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2017 Domaine Robert Arnoux / Arnoux-Lachaux Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos des Corvees Pagets 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Tasted blind. Light structure, smoky, fine but firm tannins, fresh and bright, almost Germanic in style.
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