Perfection

Tøyen, Oslo
Tasted Wednesday, June 14, 2023 by Hugo Hilde with 163 views

Introduction

I was so anxious before opening the HB 89, crossing my fingers for a good bottle. It turned out, the wine inside the bottle would exceed even my lofty expectations, absolutely spectacular.
Roulot was very much fun, need to drink more from this producer. Lamarche continues to impress, starting to become somewhat of a favourite of mine.

Flight 1 - Young whites (2 Notes)

  • 2020 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

    Decanted 5 hours before dinner

    The nose featured stone fruits, green apples, very ripe banana, honey melon, white flowers and oyster.

    Full bodied, good structure, quite oily, almond essence on the long-ish finish.
    With time the palate became more classical, less oily and with growing refinement.

    At the very end of the night I liked it quite a lot, would be happy to try again once mature.

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  • 2019 Domaine Roulot Meursault Clos du Haut Tesson À Mon Plaisir 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

    Decanted 5 hours before dinner

    Electric acidity, so much energy. Grapefruit, a myriad of flowers, marzipan, limestone and a very well defined nose. With higher temperature the razor sharp edge gave way to a more woody profile.

    Medium+ bodied, very fine structure with fine grained tannins very much complementary of the general profile. Yeasty notes and flowers as well on the palate with a very long finish.

    I put it back in the refrigerator for an hour or so, which really helped, this should not be served too warm, it would undermine what was in my opinion its greatest strengths.

    Superb village

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Flight 2 - Bordeaux (2 Notes)

  • 1989 Château Haut-Brion 100 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Wow, wow, wow.

    After a superb bottle of Cheval 47 did not compell me to grant it a perfect score, I feared I would never be moved to sign off a 100 points to any wine.

    This wine, however, defined the word flawless. Immediately after pulling the cork, it was clear I was in the presence of greatness.

    An explosion of a nose, I could smell it clearly 25 cm away from the glass. It featured blackberry, blackcurrant, so much mineral, sous bois, umami notes, freshly picked stone mushroom, clove, white pepper, shoe polish, leather and vine smoke. My god, I literally smelled this in silence for hours into the night..

    Full-ish bodied, at first bitter, then a growing sweetness before an intense coda of forest floor and nuts.
    Perfectly integrated tannins, still a small bite, countered by on point acidity, keeping it so balanced and fresh. Not at all heavy, power and intensity without any heaviness.
    Also here blackberry, as well as plums, a crazy mineralité, wet soil. The finish is literally endless with sweet orange rind and cherry pits.

    This was firing on all cylinders until the bitter end, (2AM, as I and my co-host sat 2 hours after the guests had left, drinking the sediment from the bottle, never wanting to let this experience end..) not at all worried it's going to fade, but for me, absolute perfect maturity now.

    What an experience, quasi religious..

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  • 2010 Château d'Issan 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    Double decanted 2 hours prior to serving

    Very classical bordeaux, more red fruited than the Haut Brion 89 preceding it. The nose has the mentioned red fruit, such as cherry, raspberry, as well as blueberry, plum, black pepper, cut hay, roasted rosemary and vanilla.

    A fine breadth, still a zing from the tannins, the slightest touch of heat, but nothing dramatic. A surprisingly long finish of blackcurrant and cherry.

    Even after many hours in the glass, it stayed energetic, no rush with remaining bottles.
    92/93

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Flight 3 - Burgundy reds (2 Notes)

  • 2019 Domaine Dujac Morey St. Denis 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis

    Double decanted 4 hours prior to serving

    A very fine and seamless nose of red berries, blueberries, blackcurrant, cola, vanilla, flowers and a smoke note.

    Close to full bodied, playful red fruit, five spice and a long finish, far exceeding its humble classification.

    A very different animal than the 20 Morey, which was tightly coiled and quite wild, this is more classic and drinks, for my taste, much better at this early stage.
    92/93

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  • 2020 Domaine Nicole Lamarche Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    Double decanted 4 hours before dinner

    The nose is very pure with bright red berries, crisp raspberries, vanilla, caramel, some citrus and a very subtle and funny rubber note.

    Deeper than the Dujac, jucier as well. Dusty and fine grained tannins with a long raspberry and cherry finish.

    94/95

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