California Wine Weekend

Mos Eisley Cantina & Waterhouse Restaurant
Tasted Friday, December 1, 2023 - Sunday, December 3, 2023 by RockinCabs with 139 views

Introduction

This was an absolute blow out of a tasting that had been in the planning for the better part of four months. The goal of our hosts was to showcase some of the very best wines that CA has to offer in reference point vintages and seek to provide a view of the variety of styles, era's and producer personalities in the state.

Wines ranged from 1960's Napa classics to 2018 releases from Sine Qua Non, and each meal provided 3-4 hours of fun comparing, contrasting and lively discussion.

Flight 1 - 1997 Cult Cab Legends (3 Notes)

The top 1997s were put together to duke it out. We could not get a 1997 Harlan in time for this tasting, but the screaming eagle stole the show for most of us anyway. Splitting hairs to get to a winner in this flight and each wine had at least one first place vote.

  • 1997 Bryant Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 97 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    (12/2/2023)

    Nose: Dark blackbery, plum, umami and saddle leather. A lofty nose of jammy berries, warm asphalt, cigar and stone. Perfumed and beautiful on the nose. Palate: Completely mouth filling yet spherical and together. Blueberry, coffee, cassis, mineral, sage and cocoa. A seductive and hedonistic wine. Finish: Comes through with a burst of blackberry liquor, graphite and hot stones. Lingers 60+ seconds and has such presence.

    The 1997 flight was prepared as a slow ox for about an hour before the tasting began.

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  • 1997 Abreu Cabernet Sauvignon Madrona Ranch 97 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    (12/2/2023)

    Nose: Blackberry, cassis, graphite, turned loam and leather. Just a bit of a lavender and herb note. Palate: This is rich in the mouth, but less so than the Bryant. Giving black fruit in layers, and nice floral and gravel notes in between. Finish: Penetrating black fruit notes, cigar, loam and lavender.

    I loved the fresh garden notes that intertwine with the sweet fruit here. It is culty, but the Ric Forman influence can be seen as it has the most Bordeaux like aspect here.

    The 1997 flight was prepared as a slow ox for about an hour before the tasting began.

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  • 1997 Screaming Eagle Cabernet Sauvignon 98 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

    (12/2/2023)

    Nose: Exceptionally pure nose bringing endless blackberry, raspberry and red terra cotta notes. Perfumed and elegant. Palate: Really delivers with freshness, and red/black fruit laced with violet, herb and warm red clay. Finish: detailed and lengthy blackberry, blueberry, cardamom and powdery tannin.

    Demonstrates why screaming eagle is so singular, and the Heidi Barrett era there is so legendary. The touch on this wine is exceptional, and nothing hides the east oakville terroir. Transports you back to Oakville cross road on a sunny afternoon.

    The 1997 flight was prepared with a 1-hour slow ox for all of the wines.

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Flight 2 - 2001 Napa Cult Cabs - Bolder & Riper (3 Notes)

A look at the effect that 1997 had on subsequent "big" vintages and how the winemakers began dialing up ripeness. Overall the 2001's remain in decent balance but the alcohol is easily seen as higher than the 1997 crop of cults.

  • 2001 Harlan Estate 96 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    (12/2/2023)

    Nose; Blue and black fruit, new leather, graphite and a little eucalyptus (martha's esque) as it develops in glass. Palate: Exceptional depth to the dark fruit, and a fine seam of graphite shows throughout. Rounded edges from the oak and some vanilla and espresso bean show. Finish: Oak gets more apparent here with more new leather and vanilla. However the blue fruit from this part of the valley shines, and it is less bombastic than I remember it overall. 96+, just a hair ahead of the Thorevilos for me tonight.

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  • 2001 Abreu Thorevilos 96 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    (12/2/2023)

    Large scaled, brooding and earthy cabernet. Lots of mineral, plum, sage, cassis and lavender notes. Palate is mouth filling, but not overly dense. For all of its largesse it does have a degree of restraint that tightens everything up in the finish with acidity. A lot of dark tannin here that forms a backbone that the fruit hangs on nicely.

    The power of the vineyard is forefront, there is a touch of heat at this stage, but not bad. Love the detail behind the black fruited veil.

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  • 2001 BOND Melbury 85 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    (12/2/2023)

    Nose: Gorgeous nose of black and red berries, mineral and cedar. Lets many marks of this site shine. Palate: Attack full of red berries and plum, then alcohol that just overwhelms the fruit. The beauty just got lost in the booze. Finish: remarkably hot

    Not sure if I want to call this flawed, but it was clearly out of balance.

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Flight 3 - 2006-2009 - Napa Cabs Hedonisim Embraced (2 Notes)

Napa got a bit overt with ripeness, oak, extraction and power in this era, and we wanted to see how a few of these wines were handling their heavy handed approach at mid-life

Not my favorite flight on night 1, but some others really enjoyed these bombastic attention getters.

  • 2006 Colgin IX Estate 92 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    (12/2/2023)

    A showy rich red/black fruited Colgin that has everything dialed up to about 9.5 but pulls back before going too far overboard. Sweet oak, blackberry, cherry pie, baking spices, sage, sandalwood and violets

    This is a wine that I think would have been better earlier in the evening, and was disadvantaged by being a higher abv wine late in the evening.

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  • 2009 Hundred Acre Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon The Ark Vineyard

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    (12/2/2023)

    This offered impressions of red fruit, jammy blue fruit, sandalwood and spice. Not as hot as the other wines in this flight but more anonymous. Ark is a rugged site tucked away in the base of Glass Mountain that has a strong impression of terroir in some vintages, but not the case today.

    Hundred Acre went to extreme measures in 2009 to get the fruit quality, ripeness and extraction they wanted. It is rumored that Jayson had Helicopters fly over the vineyards to try and dry the fruit

    End result is a surprisingly monolithic wine. The Hundred Acre collector at the table suggested that we give some better vintages a shot that have more stuffing.

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Flight 4 - SQN Whites (1 Note)

Manfred Krankl is known for making some really interesting white wines that are often surprising as they can be nuanced, or all out pleasure bombs. A fun look at the early days, and a current wine.

  • 1997 Sine Qua Non Twisted and Bent 93 Points

    USA, California

    (12/2/2023)

    This is a truly noteworthy wine with a caramel color at this point in its life. Slightly oxidative style with rich honeysuckle, sweet pineapple, and a grilled peach note. A bit of steel wool and burnt match as well. Many compared this to the white wines of the southern rhone, and I really see it.

    60% Roussanne and 40% Chardonnay

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Flight 5 - Mixed Vineyard SQN (3 Notes)

A look at the wines from SQN in the early/middle days of getting started when Alban, White Hawk, Stoppleman and others were the core of these wines. Eleven confessions had not yet captured the hearts of Manfred's fans and these were some of the best of the era.

  • 2002 Sine Qua Non Syrah Just For the Love of It 97 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast

    (12/2/2023)

    Bright red berries, iron, sage, beef blood, bacon and blackberry all fold into this beautifully on the nose. Palate is rich and red fruited, with black cherry and iron / meat notes. Slightly hot on the back end, but overall the impression is of a terroir focused syrah that is explosive and nuanced all at once.

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  • 2003 Sine Qua Non Syrah Papa 89 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast

    (12/2/2023)

    Nose filled with crushed rock, lavender, black raspberry and fig. Palate is rich figgy and plum fruit driven, but the oak is present and the heat is palpable. I struggle with this a bit as it has moments where it is vividly dark and beautiful, but the heat makes it hard.

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  • 2004 Sine Qua Non Syrah Poker Face 96 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast

    (12/2/2023)

    Blackberry of the darkest ilk with cassis, bacon, lavender, violet, graphite and crushed rock. A wine of paradox. Hard and Soft, Fat and Lean, Hot and Seamless all at once. The push and pull keeps this interesting and the tannin suggests this has a long way to go in the cellar.

    This really was right behind Just for the Love of It

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Flight 6 - Eleven Confessions - Pt I (3 Notes)

Some of the eleven confessions vineyard wines that bring notoriety to the SQN style

Flight 7 - Syrah Blind - Where in the World (4 Notes)

WOW. This was an enlightening flight looking at some other new world Syrah/Shiraz and a big rhone wine that shows how CDP can really amp up the ripeness.

The Aussies took a decisive win here.

  • 1998 Rolf Binder/Veritas Shiraz Heysen 94 Points

    Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley

    (12/2/2023)

    A nice minty eucalyptus expression of syrah here. Blackberry, raspberry, bramble, sweet herbs, mint and meaty charcuteries. This is a great wine that has not yet fully integrated its american oak. A stunning expression of syrah.

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  • 1998 Chris Ringland Shiraz 95 Points

    Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Range

    (12/2/2023)

    Dark sweet berry fruit, dried herbs, intense eucalyptus, charcuterie (jamon), black olives, elements of spice. This is exotic to the core and the added ripeness took me away from the normal Aussie producer to someone that pushes the limits a bit. It is incredibly young and tannic still, and the black fruit has a ton of development ahead.

    This is a remarkable wine, and so individual in its expression of Australia. I see why this gets chased, but it is not a every day choice for shiraz. A wine that defies all sense when you consider the 16.4% abv.

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  • 1998 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée da Capo Flawed

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    (12/2/2023)

    Part of a blind flight. Showed fairly ox'd and faded unfortunately.

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  • 2003 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée da Capo 91 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    (12/2/2023)

    Opened and decanted for about an hour. Intense and rich palate with black raspberry, herbs, garrigue, manure and iron notes. Exotic spice, quite a bit of wood and sweet fruit. The palate is just lacking some freshness for me, but a good look into what Cuvee da Capo is meant to show for Pegau.

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Flight 8 - Eleven Confessions - Pt II (3 Notes)

Newer releases from Eleven Confessions

Flight 9 - 1960's BV Georges de Latour (4 Notes)

A look at some of the great 1960's wines from Andre and a discussion of the history of Rutherford Bench. These wines were the foundation from which Napa Valley launched, and the first producer of highly collected fine wines in California.

Some of these are really showing well today, and represent an era in Napa that is now long gone. The rustic winery and redwood tanks have been traded for state of the art facilities, but the sensibility and resourcefulness in winemaking in this era is great to see 50+ yrs later.

Flight 10 - Heitz Martha's Vineyard - Napa's first Single Vineyard Cab (4 Notes)

Thank you to those who helped make this flight happen. This was truly a once in a lifetime flight of the greatest fully mature vintages of Heitz Martha's Vineyard.

You can really see the evolution of how Joe Heitz worked to dial in the expression of this vineyard, and the ways it showed in the wines. Each of these is a masterpiece in its own right.

  • 1967 Heitz Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon Martha's Vineyard 95 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

    (12/2/2023)

    Nose: Demure black fruit, eucalyptus, lacy and perfumed. Gentle red berry and cedar notes. Palate: A bit on the red raspberry and currant end of the fruit spectrum, and has a zippy acidity about it. Classic Martha's eucalyptus, cedar and cocoa pull the palate together. Finish: Elegant and seamless in the closing portion of the wine.

    In the context of the 68, 69 and 74 this is a step behind, but it is very pretty and has an elegance about it that is not in the more intense vintages.

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  • 1968 Heitz Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon Martha's Vineyard 99 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

    (12/2/2023)

    Nose: Blackberry, cassis, mint, cedar and dark raspberry and graphite all in the right doses. Such detail on the nose. Palate: Intense entry with fresh blackberry, eucalyptus, cedar and spice notes. Black fruit, garden soil and fresh picked mint. The feel is perfectly proportioned and has a silky texture with ripe rounded tannin. Finish: Detailed and long lasting.

    How is this wine 55 years old? The freshness the the Heitz wines of this era have is incredible compared to other producers.

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  • 1969 Heitz Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon Martha's Vineyard 97 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

    (12/2/2023)

    Nose: Blackberry, wintergreen, mushroom, shitake, cedar, mint and olive. Palate: Beautiful black fruit, plum, blackberry, mint and eucalyptus. Shows more loamy earth than either the 74 or 68, but there is a warmth in the sun kissed black currant and blackberry fruit that is really attractive in the 69 that does not present in the others.

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  • 1974 Heitz Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon Martha's Vineyard 98 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

    (12/2/2023)

    Nose: Intense eucalyptus, mint, herbs and anise rise to the top, with crystaline red raspberry, blackberry and tart cherry notes. Fruit grows in focus as this opens, and leather, cedar and nori notes develop. Palate: incredible freshness that defies the age, blackberry, dark raspberry, eucalyptus, mint and cocoa and cedar. Spherical in the mouth with graphite and cassis in the mid palate that show the terroir of this vineyard. Finish: Long and focused inner mouth perfume of black fruit and mint.

    This started in the decanter quite clenched showing a large amount of eucalyptus and dark fruit, but the detail took a few hours to fully come out. When revisited at the end of dinner this was even better as the focus kept growing.

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Flight 11 - Judgement of Peterborough (3 Notes)

Blind flight to determine where the Bordeaux is hiding in the lineup, and vote on a winner. Once again Napa wins (quality of Bordeaux in the 70's makes it hard for them to win) this time with the Clos Du Val.

A subsequent bottle of Latour did show that when 1st growth Pauillac is on it come in strong. We may be reprising this with 1990's wines soon.

  • 1978 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 94 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    (12/2/2023)

    Nose: Black Cherry, berry liquor, eucalyptus, leather and a quince note. Palate: Ripe and dense, great viscosity to the mid-palate balancing some blue, black and red fruit notes. Leather, graphite and a bit of mint. Quite a bit going on, and a slow wine to unfold.

    Within striking distance of winning this flight, but not as compelling as the Clos du Val today.

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  • 1978 Clos du Val Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 95 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    (12/2/2023)

    Nose: Pencil, red cherry, leather, cedar and blackberry compote. Palate: Blackberry, graphite, pencil shavings, dark cherry and a floral note. Seamless on the palate with a bit of ripe blueberry and soft tannin. Finish: detailed and expressive.

    Such a remarkable late 70's Napa wine the Clos du Val impresses for its ample complexity and great balance.

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  • 1970 Château Latour Grand Vin 96 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (12/2/2023)

    The first bottle was black-fruited, tannic and unyielding. A wall of blackcurrant, cassis and coal. However, a backup was pulled and it just stunned the table. Blackcurrant, blackberry, pencil, and squid ink and graphite that just produce fireworks on the palate. Everything in its place.

    Notoriously variable this wine was picked by our host to be the foil for the Judgement of Peterborough flight. Table had the 78 Clos du Val winning.

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Flight 12 - 1997 Napa Cab (Round 2)

Another selection of 1997's from popular producers, but this group demonstrated some of the challenges of the vintage. The reputation of the 1997's falling off and reaching full maturity early seems largely dependent on the level of the producer and how hard they leaned into using late ripening fruit.

Flight 13 - More 90's Napa Highlights

When you need another flight to

Flight 14 - Ridge Monte Bello Retrospective - Flight 1

Classic Monte Bello's including the 1967 that was made by Dave Bannion.

Closing

Many thanks to the team that put this together and very generously opened bottles. There were once in a lifetime experiences in some of these wines/flights, and the context we were able to create for this event is incredible.

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