Fourrier Clos St Jacques at The Ledbury

The ten most recent vintages drunk with a specially devised dinner menu. (There were two tables of eight, each with their own bottles - Simon G was on the other table, so his CT notes relate to different bottles.) The wines were all very attractive, but I have enjoyed them more in the past without the distraction of multiple vintages. This was in contrast to the Rousseau dinner last November where the vertical format brought out the singular ethereal character of his CSJ.

In due course, the 2005, 1999 and 2006 might turn out to be the real superstars, but on the night my favourites were from the lighter vintages - the 2002 and the 1998 especially.

• 1996 Pol Roger Champagne Vintage Brut 94 Points

  France, Champagne

  On brilliant form. Deep, tangy, toasty, just perfect

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• 2007 Domaine Fourrier Bourgogne Blanc 88 Points

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc

  Light, powdery, mineral, a nice lick of oak, fresh, very appealing

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• 2007 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Gushing black fruits, lots of spice, fragrant, exuberant

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• 2006 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Tighter than the 07, but more substance, black fruited too, licquorice, noticeably oaky - superb, of course

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• 2005 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Similar flavour profile to the 06, with blackberries, licquorice, violets and spice, but a bit locked in, though there's masses there - although enjoyable, this clearly needs more time.

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• 2004 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Anonymous next to the other vintages here tonight, and from memory not as enjoyable as the Cherbaudes and the Clos Solon - but still pleasant, fresh, salty and with tobacco notes' and not showing the meanness of other growers' 04s

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• 2003 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Powerful, ripe, sweet cherry fruit, alcoholic, New World style, not candied or burnt - very enjoyable, but lacking the depth or the prettiness of most of the vintages here tonight

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• 2002 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Beautiful sappy sweet strawberry and cherry fragrance, but plenty of oomph on the palate too, gorgeous

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• 2001 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Very light bodied, fresh, high toned with a earthy cola fragrance, cool and silky on the palate; freshness is the watchword here; there have been reports of faults in this wine, but to my palate this was just fine

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• 2000 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Back to the pretty strawberry and cherry style of the 2002, but less substantial; some mineral and game, very attractive

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• 1999 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Sandwiched between the prettily fragrant 2000 and 1998, this was relatively inexpressive, but more substantial on the palate, with a rich coffee tone to the fruit - needs time I guess [for several on the other table this was WOTN]

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• 1998 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Tasted blind. Bright, red fruited, fragrant, marvellous depth of fruit, stunningly beautiful

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• 1995 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Both bottles corked

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