TN: Selbach, Cotat, Belliviere, Breton, Brainaire, Usseglio, de Malle
Tasted April 25, 2010 by Loren Sonkin with 547 views
Introduction
Last night we had a two couples over for dinner. While neither of them are wine geeks, they certainly do like and appreciate good wines. It was a good chance for me to pull some interesting wines out of the cellar. No pressure to put a "label" on the table and I doubt anyone was aware what the wines cost. It turned out to be a very nice evening of friends, conversation, food & wine!
Flight 1 (1 note)
With assorted Veggies with Hummus & Pita seasoned with Zatar.
White - Off-dry
2003 Selbach-Oster Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese
Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
A nice starter for the evening. Aromas of petrol and white grapefruit. Big and blowsy and for my tastes, perhaps lacking some cut. Interestingly, this worked well with the food and better than on its own. Plenty of fruit and still this side of youthful. It didn't wow me, but certainly got the evening started right.
Flight 2 (1 note)
With Spring Ramp Soup with Fried Wonton Wrappers. Thanks to George O. for the Ramps!
White
2005 Domaine Pascal Cotat Sancerre Les Monts Damnés
France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre
This worked extremely well with the soup. Green/gold in color. The nose was incredible. Some grassiness ever so slight, grapefruits, minerals, and lime. It was layer after layer of complexity. Intoxicating. The palate was not quite as good but still a damn fine wine. Minerals and grapefruits with plenty of verve. Youthful but open. Long finish. Great wine.
Flight 3 (2 notes)
With Dermotte's salad and dressing.
White
2004 Domaine de Bellivière Coteaux du Loir L'Effraie
France, Loire Valley, Coteaux du Loir
Coming after the Cotat, this was harder to evaluate. Copper/gold in color. The nose has minerals and orange peel. It really took a while to open up. In fact, revisiting later in the night I found this to be improved. It was mineral driven but had an orange peel/Xmas spice kind of quality that was interesting. Also a bit of bitterness on the finish that begged for some food. I guess in the end I was a bit disappointed by this although it was certainly an outstanding wine.
Red
2006 Guy Breton Morgon
France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
I knew I had been pushing the whites a bit too long for some of the guests, so I gave them a choice of red, white or both with the salad. Ruby/purple in color. The nose was very earthy with some funk, leather and dark macerated cherries. On the palate, this is still young but drinking quite well. Shows complexity and depth. Cherries and earthy layers. Long finish. This was far more complex than I expected. It easily met my expectations and worked pretty well with the food.
Flight 4 (1 note)
With Spring Vegetable Ragoût over Edamame Smashed Potatoes.
Red
1996 Château Branaire (Duluc-Ducru)
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
I wish I had bought more of this back in the day. The cork was popped about 6 hours in advance and the wine just decanted prior to serving. Ruby in color with some purple hues. The nose was great. Funk, cassis, cherries, spice and leather. Really deep. On the palate, this is complex. Not mind boggling, but intellectually stimulating as well as delicious. Went great with the food but sipped well on its own. Layers of cassis, earth and spice. Long finish. Its an old cliche, but this is why you cellar wine.
Flight 5 (1 note)
With a Cheese course: Pleasant Ridge Reserve (WI), Carr Valley Apple Smoked Garlic Cheddar (WI),
Vermont Creamery Creamy Olive & Herb Goat Cheese(VT), Dry Jack wrapped in Cocoa (VA)
Red
2001 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
The bottle was opened but not decanted for six hours prior to serving. Purple in color, mostly opaque and bright. The nose has some barnyard and black raspberries. Layers of complexity on the palate. This is in a really good place right now but has years left. Went very well with the cheeses. Performed at right about where you would hope and expect.
Flight 6 (1 note)
With Ginger Snap Cupcakes, Grilled Pineapple & Sweet Curry Coconut Ice Cream
White - Sweet/Dessert
2001 Château de Malle
France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Golden in color. The nose was great with apricots and honey. full bodied. On the palate, this seemed a bit quiet. In retrospect, I should have opened the day before and put in the fridge. Still, with some air it showed more. Went very well especially with the ice cream. I had not opened an 01 Sauternes in a while, and I think I will wait a while longer. It was a crowd favorite though.
Closing
This remains my favorite way to enjoy wine. Enough people to get a glass or a bit more of each wine and then move on to another food/wine pairing. At the same time, the wines remain in the background and not the star of the show.
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