Burgundy Themed Euro Lunch: Clos des Lambrays and Cortons

Donato Enoteca, Redwood City, California

Tasted November 14, 2010 by Richard Jennings with 799 views

Introduction


This was another gorgeous, leisurely Sunday wine lunch at Donato. The food, prepared by Chef Pedro, went beautifully with our wines. What made this wine lunch great was a combo of the theme, including mature Cortons and Clos des Lambrays; the strong showing of most of the wines; and the terrific food pairings.

We started with a flight of white Burgs with some bottle age on them. I was expecting the '96 Leroy Meursault to show well--unfortunately the first bottle was corked, so I opened another. Although the second one was fine, it was still the least of this flight. Best was the '99 Les Referts from Maison Le Manoir Murisaltien, a producer whose wines I'd never tried before. The Leflaive Clavoillon and Javillier Meursault were also quite good. Our shrimp starter and then truffle and mushroom puree went beautifully with these wines.

Our very strong second flight consisted of a '90 Jadot Bonnes Mares, showing very well, and a duo of Clos des Lambrays from '98 and '99. The group's WOTF was the Jadot, but this was an immensely satisfying flight of maturing Grand Cru red Burgundies all around. The '98 Clos des Lambrays slightly edged out the '99 for me, for drinking now. Both show that the vineyards of this Grand Cru, which was elevated to that status in 1981 and substantially replanted in 1979, have matured and are thoroughly worthy of Grand Cru status. Adnd our pasta with boar ragout went very well with the flight. We then moved on to a flight of Cortons, that was also very strong, especially the '76 Bonneau du Martray and a very youthful '90 Faiveley Clos des Cortons Faiveley. The roasted pork belly in the dish for this flight sang with the Bonneau du Martray.

Our final flight on this glorious occasion was a trio of Chateau Climens--1983, 1986 and 1988--from half bottle. All were quite good, but the '86 was my wine of the day.

We've had a number of great lunches, with a lot of great wines, at Donato, but it's hard to imagine a more harmonious and delicious meal of wines and pairings than this one. But we'll try again tomorrow, with a great line up of Left Bank Bordeaux, including six from the fabled 1982 vintage.

Flight 1 - Whites (4 notes)


seared nova scallop wrapped in a king tiger prawn, with broccoli raab puree and heirloom tomato sauce

truffle and wild mushroom puree with burrata and arugula

White
1996 Maison Leroy Meursault France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
91 points
1st bottle - light medium lemon yellow color; reticent, slightly musty nose, that ultimately turned clearly to TCA; tart lemon, mineral, flat palate NR
2nd bottle - light medium lemon yellow color; reduction, nutty, almond oil, tart lemon, mineral nose; tart lemon, almond oil, mineral palate with medium-plus acidity; medium-plus finish 91+ pts.
White
1998 Domaine Patrick Javillier Meursault Les Tillets Cuvée Spéciale France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
92 points
Light medium golden yellow color; lovely lemon, mineral, lemon gelee, clementine, orange blossom nose; tasty, slightly oily textured, tangy, apple, nectarine, ripe and tart lemon, mineral palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish 92+ pts.
White
1999 Le Manoir Murisaltien Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
93 points
Light medium golden yellow color; lovely, maturing, almond, lanolin, baked apple nose; tasty, rich but poised, baked apple, ripe lemon, mineral palate; medium finish 93+ pts.
White
2000 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
92 points
Light golden yellow color; a little reduction, white chocolate, brazil nut, toasty nose; tasty, lightly oily textured, brazil nut, almond, pear palate; medium-plus finish 92+ pts.

Flight 2 - First Red Flight - Bonnes Mares and Clos des Lambrays (3 notes)


homemade papardelle with brussel sprouts and boar ragout

Red
1990 Louis Jadot Bonnes Mares France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
94 points
Bricking, medium dark red color with pale meniscus; nice black cherry, black raspberry, sous bois nose; tasty, tart black cherry, black raspberry, mineral red raspberry palate with a tobacco note; medium-plus finish 94+ pts. (group's WOTF)
Red
1998 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
94 points
Medium dark red color with pale meniscus; nice black raspberry, berry, black cherry nose; tasty, youthful tart raspberry, tart black cherry, raspberry palate with sap; medium-plus finish 94+ pts.
Red
1999 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
94 points
Dark red color with pale meniscus; cigar box, dried berry, sous bois, sage nose; tasty, cigar box, dried berry, black raspberry, sous bois palate with depth; medium-plus finish

Flight 3 - Second Red Flight - Cortons (3 notes)


roasted pork belly and pork tenderloin wrapped in guancale with broccoli raab and heirloom tomato sauce with Barolo reduction

Red
1976 Bonneau du Martray Corton France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
93 points
Bricked medium red color with clear meniscus; cocoa, cocoa powder, lamb jus, mushroom nose; mature, tasty, cocoa, black cherry, lamb jus, smoke palate; long finish 93+ pts. (great pairing with roasted pork belly)
Red
1990 Faiveley Corton-Clos des Cortons Faiveley France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
93 points
Bricking medium dark garnet red with pale meniscus; subtle mushroom, roasted lamb nose; tasty, youthful, tart cherry, tart black cherry, sous bois, mineral palate; medium-plus finish
Red
1999 Domaine Michel Voarick Corton-Renardes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
90 points
Nearly opaque red violet color; sous bois, stemmy, olive nose; sous bois, stems, olive, green bean casserole palate; medium-plus finish

Flight 4 - Climens Finish (3 notes)


Bosch pear in puff pastry with strawberries and vanilla gelato

White - Sweet/Dessert
1983 Château Climens France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac
93 points
From 375 ml - medium dark orange gold color; apricot, botrytis, pear nose; lovely, maturing and poised, tart apricot, ginger, pear palate; long finish
White - Sweet/Dessert
1986 Château Climens France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac
96 points
From 375 ml - medium dark orange gold color; apricot, honeyed, coconut, creme brulee nose; rich, unctuous, apricot, honeyed, pear, creme brulee, nectarine palate with juice; long finish (group's and my WOTF)
White - Sweet/Dessert
1988 Château Climens France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac
94 points
From 375 ml - medium gold color; apricot, grapefruit, lemon nose; rich apricot, baked apple, cinnamon, poached pear palate with good acidity; long finish

Closing

Chef Pedro

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